A sunny, hilly but scenic and adorable beautiful coastline cycling to Westport – Hard to forget

Sometimes the whitecaps out at sea are barely visible, and then, after the next bend, they seem to have multiplied dramatically.

After a little more then hour and a half  following several winding, almost serpentine bends, I arrive at the next viewpoint: Irimahuwhero. A narrow path branches off to the right, leading to an elevated lookout.

Irimahuwhero Lookout

Irimahuwhero Lookout to north

The view is breathtaking. Far below, the ocean stretches endlessly, and I can clearly see the road twisting down the hillside in a series of tight hairpin bends. Once again, the weather has changed, and the sky now looks as though it might soon unleash a thunderstorm.

For several more kilometres, both the road and the weather continue this pattern. There are plenty of hills to climb, interspersed with straighter sections that offer spectacular views of the rugged West Coast.

Eventually I arrive in Charleston, a small village that lives largely from tourism. Charleston is famous for its caves, coal mines, and historic gold mining.

I stop at the town’s main visitor centre, which combines a café, restaurant, and the departure point for tours to the mines and caves.

I order a coffee and a cheese roll, then sit down for about half an hour.

Today’s destination Westport, is just less than 30 kilometres away. According to Google Maps, the hills aren’t quite over yet, although the final kilometre into Westport should be a much easier ride.

The road has now left the coastline behind, and I’m cycling through open farmland dotted with grazing livestock.

There are plenty of both cattle and sheep along the road, and no matter how quietly I ride, they always know when I’m coming.

Every one of them turns towards the road to watch me pass. The sheep closest to the roadside dash off to join the rest of the flock farther away, while the cows simply lift their heads, calmly acknowledging my presence.

At one farm I stop for a little chat with them. They seem curious, though still a bit cautious, watching me from a safe distance.

Cows, wherever they roam, can’t resist poking their noses into humans , unlike sheep, who seem perfectly content to mind their own business.

From here it’s about 10 kilometres to Westport, and compared with the challenging climbs earlier this morning, the ride is pleasantly easy.

Just before 4:30 p.m. I cycle across the Buller River and into Westport, a modest-sized town of around 6,000 residents, according to a sign just outside town.

I cycle along the main street and quite soon I see the New World big sign and do some provisioning. Then off and looking for a café that I find a bit up the main street,  Johnny’s Restaurant & Bar, enjoying a well-earned cup of coffee before  retracing my route.

My next destination on the south island is Picton, where the ferry to New Zealand’s North Island departs. The junction for that road was one I had already passed just before reaching Westport.

As I cross the river once again, a light drizzle begins to fall. I pick up my cadence slightly, hoping to reach camp before the rain gets any heavier.

Just outside town I notice a sign welcoming self-contained campers—no facilities, just a place where you’re expected to be completely self-sufficient.

I find a quiet, secluded spot tucked away near a plantation and a small stand of trees, the perfect place to pitch my tent.

A dog from a nearby farm announces its presence with a few barks before wandering over. At first it’s hesitant and keeps its distance, but after a few minutes it comes closer, clearly hoping for a friendly pat on the head.

I manage to pitch the tent just before the first proper downpour arrives. Dinner—rice with crayfish pieces, fresh bread, a cold beer, and coffee—is enjoyed inside my little home for the night, which serves as both kitchen and bedroom.

The first 40 kilometres of today’s ride were tough , but they were also some of the most stunning I’ve ever experienced. More than once, I got goosebumps taking in the scenic view. With scenery this breathtaking, finding the drive to tackle each long, steep climb comes naturally.

See yeah later along  Buller George
// The Global Cyclist 1726