For many years, I had dreamed of visiting and cycling in Shetland. After watching numerous TV programs about the islands, I fell in love with their landscapes, views, and surroundings. Before starting my trip, I researched what it would be like to cycle around the islands, and Google proved to be a fantastic resource, offering plenty of tips.
While planning my route, I also decided to visit Orkney. Ferries from Scotland’s mainland run several times a day, both from Aberdeen and Gills Bay in the far north.
Being very fond of Scotland, I chose to start my cycling journey from Aberdeen up to Gills Bay. The route from Aberdeen is about 450 km, so I planned for five days of cycling and three nights in Inverness.
Since my last cycling trip through Scotland in 2011, I had been quietly longing for Haggis, and this time I wasn’t going to miss it. After enjoying haggis, a Guinness, and some downtime in busy Inverness, I set off north for the remaining 210 km. Three days later—one spent in fog and rain—I rolled my fully loaded bike onto Pentland Ferries bound for Orkney.
ORKNEY
I stayed in Orkney and Kirkwall for four nights at Orkney Caravan Park, cycling around and visiting famous landmarks like the Ring of Brodgar, Stromness, Standing Stones of Stenness, Yesnaby Cliffs, and of course wandering around Kirkwall. Both Orkney and Shetland have strong and clear connections to the Vikings, especially to Norway.
Orkney is well worth a visit, and I highly recommend it.
SHETLAND
The NorthLink Ferry to Shetland departs from Kirkwall late in the evening and takes about eight hours. I arrived in Lerwick early the next morning. I hade already booked a camp place, Scalloway Caravan Park approximately 12 km outside Lerwick.
The Shetland Islands consist of more than 100 islands in total, but only 15 of them are inhabited. Of these, a handful are considered the largest and most significant, with the main island, Mainland, being by far the largest, followed by islands such as Yell, Unst, Whalsay, and Fetlar.
SUMBURGH HEAD
My first trip was to visit Sumburgh Head, lighthouse and nature reserve in the very southernmost of Shetland, almost 90 km return trip. Down here I saw my very first puffin in real life.
Next day some rest and prepering my journey up north, Yell and Unst isles.
YELL
Started early in the morning and the the sun shone 👍☀️ Passed small cosy villages and most of the day. I also noticed by cycling along the bays that Shetland has lots of shellfish farming and industry. Hardly a bay without mussel and shellfish farming. No problem to find green spots for pitching up my tent or finding fresch water.
Around 14 Pm I arrived to Toft and the Ulsta ferry which took me over to isle Yell. 20-25 minutes later I steered my bicycle offboard. Weather still sunny and the surroundings was gorgeous. Some small hills to climb else quite easy cycling.
I crossed Yell first north then northeast and came late afternoon, early evening to next feery port, Gutcher.
Decided to pitch up my tent backside terminal office building and join the ferry early in the morning instead . It´s a very short trip, only 15 minutes.
UNST
I stepped onbord 06:45 and fiew minutes after 7 Am I was on Unst. After five, six km cycling I saw the sign for Uyeasound and Gardiesfauld Hostel and Caravan Park.
Unst is the smallest and northermost inhabited island with just under 720 inhabitants, The largest settlement is Baltasound with a population of aproximately 600. It also has a junior high school, small hotell, postoffice, gasstation, two foodshops and an unlicensed airfield.
Tomorrow I will visit Hermaness National Nature Reserv in the very northwest of Unst
East Scotland, Orkney and Shetland July-August 2025
East Scotland, Orkney and Shetland
HERMANESS NNR
From my campsite, I first biked along paved road, last 10-12 km along a narrow, gravel road. Traffic was almost nonexistent, making it wonderfully peaceful. Eventually, I reached a parking area, and from there it was a one-and-a-half-hour walk to the cliffs.
The trail is well maintained and mostly flat, a kind of boardwalk weaving across the heathland. Proper footwear is required, — you’ll need them.
When you finally reach the cliffs, you’ll be greeted by the UK’s northernmost lighthouse, Muckle Flugga. Beyond that, it’s just the Arctic and the North Pole.
I’ve seen seabirds on TV from incredible locations, but seeing them in person is something else entirely. Thousands — no, tens of thousands — of nesting gannets, puffins, and other seabirds surrounded me. Grazing sheep dotted the landscape, adding a serene touch.
I had to pinch myself just to believe my eyes – Unforgetable.
The weather was perfect, the views breathtaking — words really can’t do it justice. You simply have to experience it for yourself.
One thing is certain: Don’t miss Unst and the Hermaness National Nature Reserve. It’s an adventure you’ll never forget.
