Khorog 9/1

Arrival and Struggling with Illness

Upon arriving at Pamir Lodge in Khorugh, I felt noticeably weak and nauseous. Recognizing my exhaustion, I decided to go to bed early, hoping that rest would help my condition. However, my sleep was far from restful; I drifted in and out of sleep throughout the night, unable to settle into a deep, restorative rest.

A Day of Rest and Recovery

The following morning, I tried to regain some strength with a hearty breakfast of sausages, eggs, bread, marmalade, and tea. Despite the meal, I remained fatigued and spent most of the day resting. I listened to an audiobook to pass the time and only got up briefly to have some yogurt before returning to bed, still seeking relief from my lingering malaise.

Restless Night and Interrupted Sleep

By the time the clock read 5:15 PM, I felt so exhausted that I crawled under the covers, put on my wireless headphones, and listened to my audiobook. After about an hour, I finally managed to fall asleep for real.

During the night, I woke up and had to get up to use the bathroom. I also had to get up again early in the morning for the same reason. Each time, my steps felt heavy and slow as I returned and crawled back into bed, still feeling drained.

Morning Routine and New Challenges

At 7:00 AM, I got up for breakfast, sharing the meal with a particularly hungry cat and six or seven wasps that seemed to be drawn by the marmalade. Although I initially felt a bit more alert, the sense of nausea and dizziness gradually returned after breakfast, and my mouth felt uncomfortably dry, almost as if I had spent the night in a desert.

A little later in the morning, I made my way down to the main road and boarded minibus number 3, which took me into the Khorugh bazaar. My goal was to find a box so that I could pack up everything unnecessary that I had brought with me. After comparing my gear with that of other cyclists, I noticed that they typically carry about ten kilograms less. I planned to send these extra items by car, primarily to Murghab, to lighten my load for the journey ahead.

Visa Complications and Uncertain Plans

This morning brought another challenge when I received an email from the Chinese consulate. According to their message, I must apply for a Chinese visa in Sweden, as they do not accept applications submitted by proxy. This requirement means I will need to fly home to Sweden to submit my visa application in person, and even then, there is no guarantee that my application will be approved.

I have heard from other travelers about their experiences trying to obtain a Chinese visa. Some have opted to fly to Hong Kong and submit their visa applications at the airport there. The outcomes, however, have been inconsistent—while some have successfully obtained visas, others have faced rejection. The website caravanistan.com also notes that Chinese visa regulations change frequently, sometimes from month to month or even week to week, making the process highly unpredictable.

Given these uncertainties, I have devised a backup plan. If the Chinese visa proves unattainable, I intend to apply for a visa to Nepal and travel south instead. However, if I am also denied entry to Nepal, I fear that my motivation to continue the journey may falter, especially considering my current health issues.

The route ahead remains daunting. The distance to Osh in Kyrgyzstan is just over 720 kilometers, traversing mountainous terrain and climbing to elevations over 4,600 meters above sea level. These logistical and physical challenges add to the complexity of my journey as I try to determine the best path forward.

See yea later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist