26-28 November
Punta Arenas – Puerto Natales

Today weather and especially the wind is more accetable, not  perfect, but entirely bikeable. First 10 km upwards through industrial areas. Not much to see. After another 6-7 km I got some tailwind and my speed increased quite good. On my right side strait of Magellan andf I’m very pleased with the wind. When I passded the airport Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo International Airport my route turned little bit west, still pretty flat but now I facing more and more headwind.
I can accept rain, but headwinds and crosswinds are brutal. After 52 km I saw a gasstation with coffe bar which is very unusual outhere so I stopped for coffe and some rest from head and crosswinds. It was necessary!

Outside in the parking lot, a number of car enthusiasts gathered for vintage cars, so after my coffee, it was time to take a look

Old fashion cars rom the thirties.

Still going strong. They could build fancy cars back then.

After this free exhibition, continuing north on a boring road with even more boring scenery, and to make matters worse, facing even stronger headwinds.
Despite the uneventful journey, I did get to experience something interesting.

Armadillo, First time in my life I see an animal like this in real time

Tentcamp aftrwer ruta 9 north, middle of nowhwere

Meeting trucks and truck trailers in headwinds is not fun; at times, I’m pushed towards the shoulder, which is covered in loose gravel.
Late afternoon after almost 90 km on the saddle, middle of nowhere after ruta 9 north I found a green spot to pitch up my tent. I was tired and hungry!

No probs to get roof over my head and dinner. I fell into sleep around 10 PM. Woke up by traffic noise around 7,30 AM and did some easy breakfast, yougurt, musli bread and coffe. Before I fell into sleep I listen to latests version of  Millenium, Havsörnens skrik by Karin Smirnoff

Distans: 88,93 km
Average Speed: 11,8 km/h
Max Speed: 39,2 km/h
Cycling Time:07,34 h/m
Total Time:11:01 h/m
Medium Temp: 11,0 C
Max Temp: 24,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

November 27
While I was preparing for today’s cycling and packing up the tent, I heard a friendly ”good morning greeting” from the road. It was a cyclist who was more of a morning person than myself. She was a younger woman from Brazil with the same destination as me, Puerto Natales. She planned to stop in the next town, Villa Tehuelches, for breakfast.

– Maybe we’ll see each other later  we said to each other before she took off… into the headwind. Same headwind I also get later.

Villa Thuelches and stop for coffe

Nasha, the brasil girl fighting the slop after Villa Thuelches

After this meeting we did’nt see each other more. Cople hours later during the afternoon, much of the wind disappeared, and I cycled as if I were in heaven. The sun was shining, and most of the hills seemed to have vanished.
I also meet other nerds like me.

Frech family from Grenoble.They started i Peru and no going for Ushuaia

Google and Maps.Me failed, also my map and GPS device… The bridge is gone, destoyed… How to continue!!

Around 7 p.m., after 96 km I found an incredibly nice spot to pitch the tent, right next to a lagoon. Perfect for personal hygiene and dishwashing.

Additionally, I now have only about 60 km left to Puerto Natales, and with the afternoon weather, I plan to arrive around 1 p.m…. but!

After a nice dinner and coffe I jumped into my sleepingbag and almost immediately fell asleep.

Distans: 96,47 km
Average Speed: 13,9km/h
Max Speed: 33,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medium Temp: 16,0 C
Max Temp: 26,0 C
Min Temp: 06,0 C

November 28

I woke up few times and heard rain falling on the tent canvas, not much and nothing to worried about. My morning was quite nice, sun was shining and no wind so far.
When packing down my tent I saw the surface of the lagoon begin to ripple, and then the wind kicked in for real.

The rest of the day, the headwind became stronger and stronger.

The only positive is that the landscape has now started to change character. More bushes and small trees, settlements, and more delight for the eyes.

Cows are waiting to be let out to pasture.

I thought I was in Chile….!

Chiles answer to our recyclings station at home.I belive God has bestowed a
blessing upon it

Entrance into Puerto Natales and 61 km headwind is over… for this time

Casa Lili was the hostel I found both cheeap, clean and nice to join

Distans: 61,1 km
Average Speed: 10,1 km/h
Max Speed: 37,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:08:21 h/m
Medium Temp: 13,0 C
Max Temp: 23,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

 

See yeah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

25 November

Today it was planned to get up north and Puerto Natales but the wind, sidewind from north west stoped me after 7 km cycling.The risk to get into a traffic accident was abvious. The weather foecast has promised better weather, less wind today but they failed completly.  18-21 m/s was what I had to fight against.  So it was just turning back and facing a more easily cycled wind, hopfully tomorrow

Google has rapport that Puneta Arenas is one of the five most windies citys in the world.
Punta Arenas, or Sandy Point in Spanish, is located close to Rio Gallegos, Argentina but a little further south.

It is the windiest city in Chile and one of the windiest cities in the world, averaging a wind speed of 14.5 mph year round. The windiest month is December, while June is the calmest. Punta Arenas is one of the world’s southern-most cities  (shawnvoyage)

24 November 
Today one  month to chrismas and I’m headning norhtwest towards Puerto Natales and the glaciers. It’s a trip on the bike between 245-266 km from Punta Arenas where I been the last two days. Backpackers Paradise hostel was my place,

Things that worried me most was the wind, not for today but satuerday when I’m on the saddle again!

Stormy Weather in Punta Arenas

Man problems to stand upright

Yesterday it was so windy so it was even difficult to walk. I saw hats and caps blowing around. People sometimes had to hold on to poles.

Weather forcast has promised better condition tomorrow, god bless they have done a proper forcast!

I'm planning for two maybe three days on the roads to Puerto Natales, all depends on the weather, especially depends on how much it will blow and whether it is a headwind or tailwind.

Good preparation is necessery to fight wind and 250 km

My route and altitude profile

See Yeah

P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

22 November

My Motorola call 06:15 and all bags on the bike. I just need to get dressed and jump on the bikle to cycle 7 km to ferry harbor.

Early morning ride to ferry harbor in Porvenir

Aftert two hours on the strait of Magellan Puenta Arenas is close.

I will stay in Punta Arenas some day for planning my next goal. I’ve not decided yet if I go for Torres del Pain or El Calafate. I don’t want to miss the chance to see the glaciers.

Before I choose a hostel, Backpackers Paradise I just ”walk about” for copuple of hours. Something that makes me sad is all of stray dogs leing here and there.

Stray dog gets some rest

Many of them don’t seem to be undernourished, so at least they get food, but it can’t help I get sad. My thoughts goes direkt to Jussi 💓, Enso 💓 and Gordon 💓 at home and of course little Algot 💓.

21 November

I have slept well but noticed that the weather has changed from windy to rainy and back. The sky outside is gray, really gray, with a worrisome crosswind. The fisherman’s dogs are barking and going crazy when he feeds the pigs he has at the back of one of his metal sheds.

I also get several visits from them. It’s so windy that I find it difficult to take down the tent under orderly conditions. Cycling is going to be devilish today, 50 km to Porvenir and plenty of hills to fight against. My GPS has show me whats I have to fight with.

A little bit hilly, headwind, bumps, gravel, rain and loose stones and I can’t do anything about it.

my neighbor, fisherman, dog owner and pig breeder

My roads surface for today

Moreover, I’m afraid I’ll miss the last ferry of the day to Punta Arenas. It departs around 3 PM.

Even though I get to experience things and places that most people I know will never come close to, I believe!

Sometimes the sun breaks through and the wind disappears, but only for a few minutes. No time for changing to shorts!

Down there lies Strait of Magellan and not so far to Porvenir

When I’m done with the tough hills and down by the Magellan Strait, I suddenly get a smooth road… Concrete surface, yippee ki yay and only 10 km left to Porvenir.

What did he say ”Saltkråkans Melker”…. This day a life

Distans: 48,2 km
Average Speed: 10,7 km/h
Max Speed: 43,1 km/h
Cycling Time:04,29 h/m
Total Time:07:38 h/m
Medium Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 24,0 C
Min Temp: 05,0 C

See Yeah
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

20 November

Wike upp 07.30 am and loaded my bicycle for todays tour and heading Porvenir. The brakfast is served at 08:30 and I’m alone . Coffe, two warm sandwiches, two pancakes with jam and glas of juice. Todays sunshine has switched over to rain and grey sky,
My plan is to head for Porvenir from where the ferry boat over to Punta Arena depart,  First 35 km easy cycling on concret surface road. Then I came to a Y-junction. Here I must stop because there is two different roads to Prorvenir, a short one and a longer one.

At this Y-intersection, there’s also a small shelter for cyclists and others to take cover from rain and wind. The shelter is filled with text on the walls and stickers from all corners of the world.

After some consideration and advice from a passing motorist, I choose the Y-71 road, the shorter option.

What I didn’t have a full grasp of was the road’s quality and length. It was a gravel road not worth the name, full of holes, stones, loose gravel, and completely devoid of any semblance of service. It bounces and shakes all the time, and the crosswind makes it difficult to maintain balance. Additionally, there are quite a few challenging hills.

This area must be a solitary paradise. Light years between houses and no shops and other services!!

I persevere in the crosswind and over the bumps. After exactly 77.61x km, I meet a touring cyclist from Ecuador. We chat a bit, and I find out that he’s headed to San Sebastian and has no tent with him. It will be a tough journey for him; he started in Porvenir and has already cycled over 60 km.

I continue my pedaling and reach a junction, and there’s another shelter for cyclists, called Circuito de Oro. A couple is already there, and I join them. They’re from Australia; his name is Alan, and hers is Alie. They are headed to Ushuaia and then flying home. They plan to stay at this shelter tonight.

I have some snacks and an energy drink. The view from here down to Ushuaia Bay is truly magical.

After about 45 minutes, I continue for another 7-8 km before setting up camp above a number of metal sheds that I guessed were for fishermen. Two larger open boats confirm this.

While setting up the tent, I hear barking, and they come towards me at first a bit cautiously. But then their joy spreads, and so does mine.

I continue preparing for the night, and for dinner, it’s boiled rice, ham, boiled egg, tomatoes, and a non-alcoholic beer… Coffee and cookies before I crawl into my Marmot sleeping bag.

I am completely exhausted, mostly mentally.

Distans: 93 km
Average Speed: 14,0 km/h
Max Speed: 35,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,37 h/m
Total Time:09:59 h/m
Medium Temp: 06,0 C
Max Temp: 13,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

See Yeah
 P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

19 November

Out side the sun is shining and today I will take me to the Chile border at San Sebastian around 95 km . Mostley flat road. So far the roads are totaly lost of bars, cafe and shops, just a few hoses and  nothing much to see.
My first 15 km complete straight and sidewind.

Joyfully, the wind changed and became pleasant, like a tailwind, allowing me to maintain a speed of 23-23 km/h. There were, of course, some hills, but they weren’t too challenging. After about 40 km, I encounter a couple with the same cycling gear as mine… Touring cyclists.

We stop and exchange words. They are a couple from Belgium, and the girl named Fina has a trailer behind her, so I ask,

 – What’s it like to have a child with you?

 – It’s not a child but a dog!!

The belgian couple with the dog ollie

I’m completely excited with curiosity, and they open the trailer. Out jumps a black and white dog of an unknown breed, but it’s as happy as can be. She responds to Ollie, and they adopted her in Peru. She is 8 months old. I get some tips on entering Chile, as well as how the glaciers in El Calafate are to visit…

 – Don’t miss this, the guy says.

After about 20 minutes, we go our separate ways, I towards San Sebastian and the Belgian couple towards Rio Grande. The weather during the day is sunny but quite chilly. The only thing that surprises me is when I manage to startle some Guanacos, which run away and have no problem jumping high like a horse.

In the late afternoon, the wind changes back and forth between side, head, and tailwinds.

Around half-past four, I reach the Argentine control, also called San Sebastian. I stop at the small café for coffee and a muffin.

Argenina border at San Sebastian

No problems getting through. From here to the Chilean border and their San Sebastian is barely 14 km.

Here, there’s a bit more control, checking passports and other documents. I also have to fill out a form mostly for administrative reasons.

I stop at the border control, which has a room serving as the only restaurant.

Now I am in my 30th country during this Global Bike Journey that I started on April 1, 2017, and 39th overall if I count all my other bike trips.

Distans: 94 km
Average Speed: 15,3 km/h
Max Speed: 39,1 km/h
Cycling Time:06:08 h/m
Total Time:07;59 h/m
Medium Temp: 12,0 C
Max Temp: 21,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

See Yeah
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726

17-19 NovemberMy first 15 km was easier then I expected and no probs to get out of Ushuaia, Google Maps told me around 100 km to Tolhuin and also made clear I need to do some climbing. Could be better weather, the rain pooring down from start.
While I pedaling I listen to a download podcast about a robbery of a value transport in Umeå in 2009.

After about hour and a half Google’s prediction proved to be spot-on with great success.
First some smaller climbings but then up, up and up through Garibaldi Pass and the rain still pooring down. Some parts of the uphill, I had to jump of from the bike and push it.

Half way uo i was needed to refill water

At least I was on the very top and first ting I saw  was a portal and a pointing view övr Lago Escondido.

After some photos I jumped on my bicyle and took me down. Before I left a touruíst guide informed me that a bar and restaurant was open and lies at the end of the lake.

Garibaldi Pass viewpoint laje down is Lago Escondido

Previously, I had felt that the handlebars were loose and while I’m cycling down it’s get worse. I stoped at the bar which was almost occupied by others and  order coffe and two fried eggs.

I also had the opportunity to dry my gloves, hat, and rain gear by a cast-iron stove that stood in the middle of the room.

From here to Tolhuin it was about 50 km. The head and sidewind has lost most of it’s power and I could hold quite a good speed. No villages after the road just a few small houses. The surrandings is wide open and barren, with short grass, small bushes, and gray dead trees that I got to experience.
After another 20 km sidewind came back and my speed decreased a lot and I also felt tired like hell. Two km before Tolhuin a pickup car stoped me and told me to follow him. He had a offer for me, I followed him and he took me to a big and fresh cafe, Panadería La Union middle of Tolhuin  and asked me to wait.

The cafe owner came out and welcomed me, offering a bed at no cost. He asked me to steer the bike to the back, then guided me into an adjacent building, a storage and bakery. In the basement, there were three beds. It wasn’t a three-star accommodation, but it had a roof over my head, and I avoided the rain. He also gave me the opportunity to take a shower! I didn’t say no.

After my shower I went back to the gigant cafe and order coffe and two cookies

A popular Cafe in Tolhuin

Distans: 92,5 km
Average Speed: 14,3 km/h
Max Speed: 69,4 km/h
Cycling Time:07,43 h/m
Total Time:08:12 h/m
Medium Temp: 03,0 C
Max Temp: 10,0 C
Min Temp: 02,0 C

I slept quite well despite some tingling sensations in the legs. Before I left i visit the cafe for a last time for coffe and a huge sandwich with cheese and ham. I also said goodby to cafe owner.

My trip to Rio Grande is about 110 km but I’ve seen the road is not so hilly.
Weather is quite good, no rain and not so chilly. Best of all I have headwind which means
that I could maintain about 19-22 km per hour.

The road and surroundings are empty and desolate, not much in terms of buildings.
The only company I got is just cows, horses, sheeps and very shy Ilamas. I the afternoon wether
change and become more windy, esspecially from the sides.

Around 5:45 PM it was not more then 10 km left but it was like hell, wind from head and side,
industrals buildnings, traffic lights every 100 meters and no centro in my sight.

17:45 I was in town,Rio Grande tired and bored.

Tomorrow I will head for the border into Chile and Google has described the route as flat, which is also evident in the graph.

Distans: 110,87 km
Average Speed: 18,3 km/h
Max Speed: 52,8 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:07:54 h/m
Medium Temp: 05,0 C
Max Temp: 20,0 C
Min Temp: 1,0 C

See yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

 

17 November

Woke up 05:10 and started to prepare my cycling towards Rio Grande. Outside it’s raining ”cats and dogs” so this day starts wet.

Check up weather forcast and it seems to be cold and rainy for many days… that’s the fact, just facing the reality.

My weather forcast prognos 14 days from now

While I’m writing this post wating for the staff to bring breakfast. What so ever I’m positiv
to rooling out from Ushuia and get north.

My route first couple of days

See Yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

Woke up at 6 and tried to go back to sleep again but no success. Get dressed and made some coffe in the kitchen. Outside the ground is white and snow mixed with rain in the air and the temperature shows 7 °C… No time for shorts.

Snow, rain and 6 C

Around 8 they serve breakfast, egg, musli, milk, breaad, jam and coffe. After that I started to finísh with assembly of the bike, bag holders and handlebar bag.

To cycle downtown is easy, mostly dowards,  more specifically very downwards, slope between 10 and 20 %. After some hundred meters I regret I left my gloves in the room. It’s very chilly. Cycling around and stoped

When I heard people shouting and manifesting loudly, the entire street was completely blocked by hundreds of blue-white flags with the ATE logo. It’s definitely a demonstration for fair wages.

 Ushuais demonstrate for fair wages and better conditions at workplaces

I stoped for a while and listen to speachers and drums and warm up my hands over a fire.Then I joined a coffeplace and open my Google maps I had prepared. Find out my first goalRio Grande is 210 km north and a little bit steepy!,especially from the beginning.It’s goona be no problem to stay warm.

Altidute profile to Rio Grande

Ushuaia relies on tourism. Banks, coffeshops, souvenirs, tourism agencys, and lots of shops selling outdoors equipments and clothes. Not a singe grocery shops like ICA,Coop or WiLLYS. Despite the tourism relies the english skills is quite bad.

Another thing, it’s also quite expensive, a medium coffe around 39-40 SEK, for a sandwich you need to pay 75-100 SEK.
Google and Trading Economics tells that inflation Rate in Argentina increased to 142.70 % in October so it’s understandably why people demonstrate. Something strange, all prices has a $ symbol

As I went back up, I felt my gears jump back and forth. I have to fix this tomorrow thats for sure. I also must check up how easy or difficult to use cards up north or  how much I need to withdrawal local currency.

See Yeah later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726