Green House Hostel and a flight back to Sweden

8/917
After two rough days in Khorough and five more in Dushanbe, I still don’t feel recovered, and the medicine I brought isn’t enough. On top of that, the healthcare here in Tajikistan is nothing like what you’d expect in Sweden. I even went to a so-called health center in Khorough that others had recommended, hoping they might have some kind of miracle cure.

I showed them my inhaler tubes, but they hardly knew what they were for. After a brief examination, I lay on a wooden couch while a nurse connected a tube to my right arm. I assumed it was some kind of antibiotic, but later found out it was an electrolyte solution.
That was it—I left the health center only a little heavier than when I arrived, the liquid adding maybe a kilo or two. Two days ago, I finally decided that my health comes before my pride and I’m not risking further complications.

The last time I went through something similar was six years ago, that time caused by a cold. Back then, I couldn’t do any physical activity for almost three months, and it took another three before I could train fully again. These days in Dushanbe, Philipp, Beate, and I don’t do much. I mostly rest and plan for the trip home.

The flight from Dushanbe to Frankfurt leaves only once a week, so we have to wait. We’ve also been checking the cost of bringing bikes on the plane, getting different answers depending on who we ask.

Philipp and Beate at airport office

Philipp and Beate completely dismantle their bike after being told  that if it weights less than 7–8 kg,, it’s free, and the extra weight for the rest of the luggage costs less—making it a good deal for them. I pack my bike in a regular bicycle box someone left at the hostel.

Until the flight, there will be plenty of reading, TV, and rest, with some time for relaxing in Dushanbe.

Monument Istiklol Independence Monument, Dushanbe

 

Today, september 8th. The flight leaves Dushanbe at 22:20 and is scheduled to arrive in Frankfurt seven hours later. With the time difference, we land at eight the next morning.

Check-in is smooth. As soon as we lift off, I put on my eye patches, start the audiobook, and let go. Sleep comes quickly. We touch down in Frankfurt right on time. This is where my journey with Philipp and Beate ends. Philipp’s father is waiting to drive them home to Aachen.

I head in the opposite direction, alone, to find a train north—toward Malmö.

After some hassle and waiting, I finally get a ticket back to Sweden and reached Malmö in the afternoon. I check into the same hotel as after last year’s Turkey trip—Scandic Kramer, just steps from Central Station.

Philipp and Beate at airport office

Malmoe ans Scandic Kramer hotel

First thing, a long shower. Let the road wash off. Clean clothes. Then I head out for a ”walk about”slow walk nearby and a late dinner.

The next day, I take the train to Stockholm, and from there an SJ connection home to Örnsköldsvik.

I don’t think anyone really understands my frustration. I’ve poured so much time, money, planning, and energy into this dream journey—and it breaks apart because I didn’t realize dust could hit me the same way the cold does. That’s a hard thing to swallow.

Now I have to see my doctors, figure out what can be done, rebuild my strength. And then—when I’m ready—I’ll start again. From Khorog, via Osh and  through China.

Despite everything, I’ve been places and experienced things that most people never get close to. Those moments are mine forever. They stay. I was there. I saw it. I lived it.


See Yea Later
PG The
// The Global Cyclist now disillusioned Cyclist

By |2026-02-09T11:32:41+00:00september 10th, 2017|Central Asia, Europe, Sweden, Tajikistan|0 Comments

Green House Hostel, Tajikistan CANCELS…!!

4/92017

After a few days in Khorough battling nausea and pain, I was starting to regain my strength thanks to a dose of Tajik penicillin. But on the second-to-last night, after going out to eat, I struggled to make it from the road back to my hostel. Breathing was difficult, and I had to sleep half-sitting. My asthma medication only provided temporary relief, and soon I was dealing with more aches and dizziness. A Dutch doctor staying at the hostel advised me not to continue without a proper examination.

With my asthma, the dusty weather, and the high altitude risking aggravating my condition, I chose to join a young German couple—who had canceled their bike trip to Osh due to AMS, Altiude Mountain Sickness—and ride a jeep back to Dushanbe.

Our Jeep back to Dushanbe

During this trip, I’ve realized that dust, combined with the high altitude, is behind my health issues. The dust along the road has caused me, on three occasions, to barely manage getting in and out of the Jeep without triggering asthma attacks, and my medication only helps for a short time.

My whole thoracic spine feels inflamed, aching from my waist to my neck, and even walking up ten steps leaves me breathless.

Canceling is not a decision I take lightly, and I’m deeply disappointed. All the preparations and dreams that motivated me to trade my daily routine for life on a bike feel like they’re falling apart.

The motivation vanished, and then came the strange issue with the Chinese visa requirement. According the consulate, I’d have to fly to Sweden and apply for a new one there, as any application through a representative wouldn’t be approved. The German couple I shared a jeep with got the same message before heading into Mongolia.
Two other Swedes heard the same, but for some Norwegian cyclists, it was fine.

My dreams have crashed—I hope it’s only temporary. I’m booking a flight from Dushanbe back to Sweden as soon as I can get a ticket, which I’ll try to arrange this morning.

See yea later
PG
//Disappointed The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-09T09:30:00+00:00september 4th, 2017|General|0 Comments

Pamir Lodge, sick, nausea and negative info from Chinese consulate

Khorog 9/1

Arrival and Struggling with Illness

Upon arriving at Pamir Lodge in Khorugh, I felt noticeably weak and nauseous. Recognizing my exhaustion, I decided to go to bed early, hoping that rest would help my condition. However, my sleep was far from restful; I drifted in and out of sleep throughout the night, unable to settle into a deep, restorative rest.

A Day of Rest and Recovery

The following morning, I tried to regain some strength with a hearty breakfast of sausages, eggs, bread, marmalade, and tea. Despite the meal, I remained fatigued and spent most of the day resting. I listened to an audiobook to pass the time and only got up briefly to have some yogurt before returning to bed, still seeking relief from my lingering malaise.

Restless Night and Interrupted Sleep

By the time the clock read 5:15 PM, I felt so exhausted that I crawled under the covers, put on my wireless headphones, and listened to my audiobook. After about an hour, I finally managed to fall asleep for real.

During the night, I woke up and had to get up to use the bathroom. I also had to get up again early in the morning for the same reason. Each time, my steps felt heavy and slow as I returned and crawled back into bed, still feeling drained.

Morning Routine and New Challenges

At 7:00 AM, I got up for breakfast, sharing the meal with a particularly hungry cat and six or seven wasps that seemed to be drawn by the marmalade. Although I initially felt a bit more alert, the sense of nausea and dizziness gradually returned after breakfast, and my mouth felt uncomfortably dry, almost as if I had spent the night in a desert.

A little later in the morning, I made my way down to the main road and boarded minibus number 3, which took me into the Khorugh bazaar. My goal was to find a box so that I could pack up everything unnecessary that I had brought with me. After comparing my gear with that of other cyclists, I noticed that they typically carry about ten kilograms less. I planned to send these extra items by car, primarily to Murghab, to lighten my load for the journey ahead.

Visa Complications and Uncertain Plans

This morning brought another challenge when I received an email from the Chinese consulate. According to their message, I must apply for a Chinese visa in Sweden, as they do not accept applications submitted by proxy. This requirement means I will need to fly home to Sweden to submit my visa application in person, and even then, there is no guarantee that my application will be approved.

I have heard from other travelers about their experiences trying to obtain a Chinese visa. Some have opted to fly to Hong Kong and submit their visa applications at the airport there. The outcomes, however, have been inconsistent—while some have successfully obtained visas, others have faced rejection. The website caravanistan.com also notes that Chinese visa regulations change frequently, sometimes from month to month or even week to week, making the process highly unpredictable.

Given these uncertainties, I have devised a backup plan. If the Chinese visa proves unattainable, I intend to apply for a visa to Nepal and travel south instead. However, if I am also denied entry to Nepal, I fear that my motivation to continue the journey may falter, especially considering my current health issues.

The route ahead remains daunting. The distance to Osh in Kyrgyzstan is just over 720 kilometers, traversing mountainous terrain and climbing to elevations over 4,600 meters above sea level. These logistical and physical challenges add to the complexity of my journey as I try to determine the best path forward.

See yea later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-09T09:20:17+00:00september 2nd, 2017|Central Asia, General, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments

Khorog and Pamir Lodge Next

30/8

I leave Pastkhuf early before the sun gets too hot. There will be no breakfast but blindly trust to find some roadside restaurant along the way. Unfortunately, I dont do that until after 20 km and its a big hotel that is completely empty of guests. I order an icecold beer, bread and three fried eggs that I eat with a good appetite.
The rest of the way towards Khorog, the capital of the Gorno-Badakhshan region, is just a simple transport.

I cycle into Khorog which is teeming with cars, pedestrians and I passing a large bazaars.

Entrance Khorog

My hostel in Khorog, Pamir Lodge is located on the other side of the bridge that crosses where the Gunt and Panj rivers confluences.

Khorog is a busy town. 28 000 inhabitants  and only place along the Pamir highway between Dushanbe and Osh that offers some comforts of a city. You can find supermarkets, great bazars, several restaurants and bars, lots of hotels and homestays. Khorog has also two univeritys which can explain why many people can speak some english.

In the very middle of city a huge forested park with a large swimmingpool and it´s a very popular place, both for turists and locals.

A nice and popular palce in Khorog central park

In the afternoon, I cycled across the river and headed toward Pamir Lodge, lies about 2 km from the city center on a slope facing Khorog. The climb was quite steep and a bit tough. I searched for the Pamir Lodge sign but saw no one, until I heard voices calling behind me. Turning around, I spotted the two German cyclists I had camped with the night before; they waved, and behind them was the sign for Pamir Lodge.  

The staff were sitting outside at a low table, eating. I asked if there was space for me, and soon a friendly young girl showed me around the large, leafy grounds. Below the reception stood a two-story house with a ground floor.

Pamir Lodge tourists and backpackers buildning

Single rooms cost $35 with a private toilet and shower, doubles cost $24. Outside, six or seven spots marked with colorful carpets offered space to pitch a tent or lay out a mattress for $5.  On the first and second floors, multi-bed rooms , dormitorys for $7. Breakfast extra at $3.

Pamir Lodge also offers services like bicycle repair, laundry, trip planning and free WiFi, but it works only few hours in fornoon, afternoon and evening.The speed is  The staff speaks good English. The WiFi is anything but fast.

I chose a six-bed room on the first floor. As I unpacked my bike, I began feeling unwell—tired and with diarrhea. I settled in before heading to the toilet and shower located below the short side of the building.

Dormitory room, six bed

After resting for a few hours, I joined the German man I’d met the night before, whose name is Manfred, for a trip down to the Bazaar. We took one of the small white shuttle buses back after enjoying meat soup and beer.

The final uphill stretch to my room was exhausting, and I felt certain I had a fever. After another trip to the toilet, I crawled into bed with my headphones and audiobook, pulled down my blindfold, and tried to rest.

Total distance 47,30 km Travel time 03.54 h.m Total time 19.36 h.m
Max speed  42,8 km/h Medium speed  12,2 km/h
Max temp Average temp Min temp
Max elevation  2145 m.a.s.l Min elevation  1970 m.a.s.l Total Elevation  494 m

See yah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-08T21:00:29+00:00september 1st, 2017|Central Asia, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments
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