April 14-15

Today I’m leaving Twizel and heading towards Wanaka. The first thing I noticed when I walked to the kitchen and dining area was that parts of the lawn were white. It was frost. Good to keep this in mind, as the road may be slippery—especially in places that have been shaded. I’ve checked the weatherforcast for coming days and they promised sunny weather and only light winds.

Crossing one Of many creeks and rivers. – Ahuriri river before Omarama –

Most of the backpackers seems to have  seems to have taking lie-in, I’m almost completely alone in the kitchen. Just before 10 A.M I turn right from High Country Lodge & Backpackers hostel and follow road 8. The sun is shining from almost cloud free sky and the road is flat.

Around noon I arrive at Omarama, a roadside tavern The Wrinkly Ram on my left side became my first stop today. Lots of people sitting outside and eating lunch and I’ll joined them.

Wrinkly Rams roadside tavern was popular place to join

Inside the restaurant it’s a que, seems to be a popular place. Coffee, a big sandwich and a smoked sheep sausage will be my lunch and I take my tray and sit outside in the sunshine. This restaurant has also a shop where they sells clothes, gloves, hats and other things that can be made from sheep’s wool.

Different wool quality

Half a hour later I was on the road again and next  waypoint is Lindis Pass , 33 km away. First part quite easy. The road goes through valleys and cattle meadows, then winds slowly between the mountains that get higher and more powerful with each km.

Short break and trying out my new leather hat made from sheepskin

Something that is a bit amusing about New Zealand is that all the creeks that pass under the road have names: Lindis Creek, Sheepskin Creek, Shoulders Creek, and so on.

Thirty minutes later I had Lindis Pass in my sight and 3 km to viewpoint

Lindis Pass ahead of me

Lindis Pass is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful mountain passes. 971 m.a.s.l.

Lindis Pass, alpine landscape, with its tall, tussock-covered mountains, is stunning to view. The hills look like soft, down-filled pillows that I would like to rest my head against.

Almost 1000 m above the sea level

From here, it’s mostly downhill to my tent camp in the valley. I take it slow, not entirely sure if the road surface might be slippery. It’s barely 5–6 degrees where the sun still reaches.

Down through Lindis Pass

By 6 p.m., I’ve reached smoother ground, and the fading sunlight seems to say it’s time to pitch the tent. The air has turned really chilly, so I pull on my gloves to keep my hands warm. Just past a large bend in the road, I spot a detour through a gate with a sign reading “Private, No Entry.”

I park the bike just to the right of the gate, where a green patch offers plenty of space to set up camp. With no houses or people nearby to ask, and no signs forbidding camping, I go ahead and pitch the tent.

Half an hour later, I’m sitting inside preparing dinner: brown rice with bacon, sandwiches, coffee, and a tiny bit of wirre.

Feeling a bit chilly, as I crawl my Marmot sleeping bag, put in my earbuds, and try to finish episode six of the radio serial ”The Suite”. Of course, I drift off before the 26-minute episode wraps up. An hour later, I wake to find complete darkness outside; every now and then, a car rushes past, but they’re rare and far between.

See yeah from Wanaka
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

 Old and abandoned barn

Next morning
I slept like a log last night, first ting I did was to looking out and  just to notice that is little bit chilly and foggy. After my breakfast I feelt ready and excited for todays cykling to Wanaka och lake Hawea.
It’s so cold that I’m tempted to bring out the down gloves, but I think I’ll hold off a bit longer. First part of the road is narrow and winding, only few small slopes to climp. Follows the Lindis river. The surroundings is dry and golden hill covered with tussock grass and schist rock.

By half past ten the sun has picked up strength, and so have I. A decent climb up Cluden Hill Summit over just under 4 km, about 10 km from Tarras, makes the body heat rise.
At the very top of Cluden Hill a parking space where I stop for rest my tired legs. It’s also a viewpoint from where you can view down 100 metre decent into Lindis valley, captivating view.

Although I will not complain, the views down through the valley and the weather which has now become pleasant were worth all the effort.

Lindis Valley from Cliden Hill Summit, an adorable and scenic view.

Lindis Valley from Cliden Hill Summit, an adorable and scenic view.

After 4 km climbing up Cluden hill

45 minutes later I steered my bike into the cafe in Tarras, Tarras Country Café. The sky was clear blue and the air was warm. A lovely autumn day, perfect for cycling.

Tarras is a small village with a few houses, a cozy café, a country store where you can buy sweaters and clothes from the local sheep and a small souvenir shop with slightly better quality items.

 Tarras center, gasstation, café and merino wool shop

The café Tarras Country Café is cozy and in the middle of a long wall they have an open fireplace where the fire is lit.

A female proverb written in chalk adorns another wall and arouses my interest.

Tarras café proverb

I order a cup of tea and a warm scone with butter from the menu in front of me, skipping the coffee as the aroma of tea drifting from the kitchen changes my mind.

Warm scones with homemade butter and te

I sit outside in the warm autumn sun that is now doing its best to warm up a cyclist. The woman in the café soon comes out with the tray with my scones, a plate of yellowish butter and a large cup of tea. She also sets out a jug for refills.

Sitting and enjoying something in the middle of the autumn sun. The scones were probably freshly baked because they tasted absolutely excellent.

Before I head Wanaka, I took a look at the country store where wool products and merino wool sweaters are neatly laid out.

I follow road 8A, first part is wide with rolling terrain, big skies and long views toward the Dunstan Mountains dominate the horizon.

No wind at all today, but if there was it would be quite tough as there are no trees and little protection from the wind. Then the surroundings change to wide river terraces and farmland.

After 15-16 km the road reaches the Clutha River which winds like a snake. Where the river bends there is a green spot which is perfect for stopping for a little photo opportunity.

Clutha river with its turquoise water perfect match to surroundings autum color

A few others did the same as me. The river below is a deep blue or turquoise, probably due to glacial sediments, like Lake Tekapo.

Some kilometres later I cross the river at a historic red bridge, a beautiful steel structure. A sign says it is a one-way bridge so I have to be careful of oncoming traffic.

Big Red Bridge over Clutha river. A truss bridge open 1915

The road follows the Upper Clutha River valley, orchards, vineyards and pastures appear and still no headwind.

Five km before Wanaka I pass an airfield and some hang gliders land. The airfield arranges transport to glaciers, for hiking and fishing.

Near the airfield is a large building, the National Transport and Toy Museum, with old planes and vehicles.

National Transport and Toy musem in Wanaka

There is also a toy shop with a special section for Star Wars items. A sign at the entrance says that the museum has 60,000 toys, 650 vehicles and 20 planes.

Inside the toy shop is a pub that I visited. A cold beer is always a cold beer.

Continue another 10 km to Wānaka, it is a popular ski and summer resort and is very beautifully situated at the southern end of Lake Wanaka. Lots of sailboats are moored at the marina.

Entrace to Wanaka from south east

Wanaka marina in southern Wanaka Lake

I only stop to withdraw money and have a coffee break at a pub. Then I follow the lake a little north and stop at a small grocery store in Albert Town for supplies.

I arrived at the southern end of Lake Hawea just before 6:00 PM. As the sun sets, I look for a nice spot to pitch my Hilleberg tent.

A sign leads me to a holiday campsite just a few hundred metres north. Very close to the shores of Lake Hawea, a perfectly green and clean place to camp.

Tent camp Lake Hawea

The whole area is well-kept and clean. Not much rubbish to see and the information at the recycling centre says that the best way to recycle is to be resource efficient and buy as little as possible to save our planet. I can’t help but agree.

Picking up my camping gear and preparing tonight’s dinner, the air is still warm so no problem eating outside.

The sun sets and only a few ripples on the lake, almost no wind. The place and the evening are so beautiful that I get goosebumps.

At half past nine I’m already in my sleeping bag with headphones listening to the fifth chapter of ”The Suite”.

See yeah from Haast Pass
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

8 April

Yesterday was an relaxing and preparation day for today I´m headning southweast, my intermediate destination is the the lakes Tekapo and Pukaki but
I wasn’t feeling great — a bit warm and off — so I went to bed early.

When I woke up I still was a bit off, probably a slight fever. The hostel was full booked so I couldn´t stay for another day.

If I get worse while cycling I’ll have to find a cheap hostel down the road. There is lots of them so it gonna no be a problem.
After handing in the towel and keys, I cycle through the city and through the divinely beautiful park Hagley Park. The weather is sunny but warm or cool depending on how you look at the weather. I can’t find a cheap hotel or hostel but in all honesty, I’m not looking for one either.

After 7-8 km my thoughts about afternoons camping and also it was long time I sleept in my  Marmot sleeping bag! If I’m not mistaken, it was the l
ast night of the tent camping before I cycled across the border to China.

Few seconds later, a new thought came up. Where is the sleeping bag? In which bag… ehhh? No one will be the answer.
It remains in the dryer at the hostel. Shit,  anything just cycle back and get it, just cycle back and pick it up. Too expensive to just leave it, it cost 390 $.

Half past 1 I left Kiwi hostel for the second time this day. Same route.

The road is flat and well–trafficked. Has tailwind and it feels relatively easy. The landscape varies between large cattle meadows with cows and sheep and vineyards.

I’m fascinated by all the cattles. The cows are in their hundreds, as well as the sheeps. That New Zealand is a cattle and agricultural country THERE is no
doubt about

The communities also appear at regular intervals. The mountains on my right are all white–clad and majestic.. There are a few stops for water filling and at Rolleston I turn in to find a café bar. Cafe Culture will be my choice which is located in a shopping center.

I only bought coffe, cookies I bring with me from my handelbar bag. Before I left Rollestone I stepped into the gasstation for two bottles of water.

The road is both flat and straight and I still have some tailwind. My suspected fever seems to be a thing of the past, I feelt much better. The sun has been shining all day, but as I approach Rakaia I feel a little tired, it is slowly starting to sink. Just before 6 pm I cross the Rakaia River over a long bridge, 1800 meters. Not much water in the river, maybe low tide.

Train bridge over Rakaia river

Rakaia bridge one of the longest in New Zealand

Shortly after the bridge, and before I reached the village, I spotted a very nice green patch on the right-hand side.

The grass looked freshly cut, with no rubbish, cans, or empty plastic bottles in sight. In the middle of the green area stood a large table, perfect for my dinner, garbage bin and a few big, green trees.

I was able to lean my bicycle against — and lock it to — a small wall built like two stone pillars with a plank between them.

My camp place Rakaia

After I pitch up my tent I was ready for some kitchen chores. Pasta, meatballs, a beer and then obligatory coffee with cake. Before I crawl into my tumbel dry marmot sleepingbag I took care om my hygiene. I also check up my route for tomorrow, Geraldine or close to. My Garmin GPS hshows the route is quite flat, just few hills to climb.

Listened to one of my downloaded Swedish radio programs. Even though you’re on a bike trip on the other side of the world you have to keep an eye on what’s going on at home.

Later I woke up to the train roaring past above me, which I didn’t notice when I pitched the tent.

Salmon monument in Rakaia. Raika town has taken its name from the river which also knows for its salmon fishing and jetboating

See Yeah Later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist

April 6

Today I planned a bicycle tour south to Lyttelton, a port town on the north shore of Lyttelton Harbour .  A ride about 14 km. First part was quite easy until the junction to Ferrymead, turn right and follow the sign that shows Lyttelton, 6.3 km. Here starts a small climbing for few km, but my ride stops 

Easy cycling to Ferrymead

I wasn’t allowed to cycle through the tunnel.

when I came to a tunnel. A traffic police officer or with a similar function waves me towards the side of the road.

– How do You do säger han med stort leende

– I’m fine and the weather is also good

– I hope You haven’t planned to cycle through the tunnel? säger han

– No, I’m not kommenterar jag.

– By the way, I didn’t know there was a tunnel in front of me!

– You did not see the sign in the start of the climbing, a sign with a bicycle overcrossed?

– No I did not notice that säger jag urskuldande.

– Is there another way for me to cycle to Lyttelton?

– Yes, You can take a route, the Birdle Path two hundred meters from here, 2 k with cars, 3 k over the mountain and Birdle Path säger han och pekar på den brunklädda bergssluttningen jag har för mig:

– You can also jump on a bus, leave your bicycle at our office here in frotn and then jump off when coming back.

He then says that he shows me the small turn–off that leads to the Birdle path Track…

 – Just follow me, I show you where to turn right

A hundred meters further up a small office and a small turn–off road down to the valley. Then the road turns up and a gravel road begins. A brown sign  with white letters ”Birdle Path” tells me I´m on the right track and also gave me some  info about the path.

The Bridle Path was originally constructed as a way for the first Canterbury Association settlers to traverse the Port Hills that surround Lyttelton and take horses, cattle and sheep from the port to the land they would settle on the Canterbury Plains.

The path was too steep to ride horses all the way, so riders had to dismount and lead their horses by the bridle over the steepest parts, hence the name.

View down Ferrymead from Birdle Path

It was´nt easy upwards, quite steep, almost 2 km but the scenic view down to Ferrymead was gorgeous and stunning. At the top of the 335 m.a.s.l high hill stands a triangel like buildning, Canterbury Pioneer Women’s Memorial wich commemorates the pioneer women of Canterbury in New Zealand.

Canterbury Pioneer Women’s Memorial at the top of Port Hill

After arrival by sea in Lyttelton Harbour, early settlers had to cross the Port Hills via the Bridle Path to reach Christchurch or the Canterbury Plains.

The Birdle Path Track continues on the other side of the hill.  It´s  paved  paved road and the sign warns that it is steep and may be slippery and loose gravel.

The views down towards Lyttelton harbour and the bay are outstanding. I got goose bumps.

Lyttleton harbor

It’s almost as hard to cycle downhill as it is to get uphill. It’s so steep that I have to use both the front and rear brakes.

Every 25–30 metres, they have cut off the cycle and walking path with a 2 dm wide and planked ditch. Probably to divert all rainwater from the mountain.
At each such ditch there has been an elevation in front of so many times I have to jump off the ”bike” to not risk crashing.

When I come down to the settlemens I get a clearer picture of what Lyttelton looks like. It is not big town but the harbor seems impressive.

Finally I come to what seems to be the main street, London Street i´s the name and the street is quite crowded with people. It´s market day

Today it´s saturday, markets day in Lyttelton

Lytteltom markets it´s one of the most popular markets in the region

The Lyttelton Farmers Market is hel every Saturday on London Street, Lots of stalls with local produce, artisanal bread, meat, cheese, flowers, and live music. It is a popular, and dog-friendly market.

A café with the appropriate name Café Culture attracts me.

– Black, long Coffe, Americano type, no sugar and creame and a bun like that one  and point to a large bun that looks like a pie.

 – No 17 says girl behind the counter and sets out a steel–like figure with number 17 at the top.

After my coffee break and strolling among all the stalls I leave this cozy town. Instead for same route back I follow Summer road after the coastline. I did some stop just to take a look at the beautiful view of the harbor. A lagre red cargo ships has anchored.

Lyttelton Harbour is a major inlet and is the major deep-water port serving the city of Christchurch,and south island

Lyttelton east harbor and port

The weather seems to turn into cloudy so I speed up a little. I left my raincoats at my hostel. Out of Littleton it’s a bit steep, but then I get a lovely downhill ride more towards Sumner beach

Sumner beach on cloudy weather

When I get down to the sea and Sumner beach I get a headwind but the experience of all the beautiful things that NZ can show makes you forget about it.
It is low tide and many people take advantage of this time to walk after the beach and the dogs run around happily and think it is fun to be loose.

The weather is still nice but from the sea some rain clouds are towering so in about an hour and a half there will probably be precipitation. Along the coastline are many beautiful and cozy houses and I wonder for a few seconds what they cost.

The traffic is busy but they have build a very nice cycle paht along that follows closest to the beach. Follow the road to Woolstone where I looking a bit curiously into a bicycle shop.

Some half an hour later I´m back in Christchurch and turn into Gluchester Street and back to Kiwi Hostel. Now the sun has appeared and in my mind it´s also sunny.

See Yeah lLater
P-G
// TheGlobal Cyclist

Christchurch is the second-largest city in New Zealand, but it’s not too busy, fairly flat, and easy to get around. There are plenty of small parks and green spaces, and I also came across several bicycle shops and workshops. After nearly 1,000 km since my last bike check-up, I decided to have a service guy take a look at it.

Just two weeks before I arrived, a terrible and senseless terror attack occurred. The first was at the Al Noor Mosque in central Christchurch, followed by a second at the Linwood Islamic Centre, just a kilometer from my hostel. A single shooter killed 51 people and injured 89 before being stopped by police on his way to a third mosque.

Two consecutive mass shootings took place in Christchurch, New Zealand, on 15 March 2019. The first at the Al Noor Mosque in Riccarton, central Christchurch. Terrible and incomprehensible

The second one one took place at Linwood Islamic Centre .. Terrible and incomprehensible

While I was waiting for my tent to be cleaned of from my Borneo ants  I was exploring the town, visit Canterbury museum, Christchurch Art Gallery Te Puna o Waiwhetū, cycling around and so on.

Commonly known as the Christchurch Art Gallery, is the public art gallery in the city of Christchurch

The Canterbury Museum, spread over several floors, features fascinating exhibitions about Antarctica and the various discovery expeditions there. It also has a section dedicated to the Maori, showcasing their life and culture, as well as displays on New Zealand’s unique birds and a small tribute to their legendary Speedway hero, Ivan Mauger. At the top of the museum, there’s a café offering a lovely view of the botanical garden.

I visited this museum several times and I do recommend a visit

Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island and the second largest in New Zealand. Nearly 400,000 people live there, but it’s hard to experience Christchurch as a big city. There are few high-rise buildings, and many small streets where bars and pubs compete for space with other little shops.
Many houses are in traditional English style, though there are also plenty of fashionable homes.

The Avon, a small river, flows through the town, and along the slopes down to the riverbanks many people sit down to reflect, while others enjoy something they have brought with them to eat.

Avon river banks is a popular place for many

The Avon River flows peacefully through Christchurch and its popular to row boats

A tram line also runs through town with old fashionrd red cars. Down here is autumn but the temeratures is more like normal Sweden summer. Many wear shorts. At home in Sweden is spring!

While I was walking about Christchurch aI stopped by a colorful building that resembles a triangle. It was a cathedral, named Cardboard Cathedral, formally called the Transitional Cathedral, replacing christchurch cathedral  which was damaged hard after 2011 earthquake.

Materials used include 60-centimetre  diameter cardboard tubes, timber and steel. The roof is of polycarbon.

Cardboard Cathedral was build after the 2011 earthquake.
Materials used include 60-centimetre (24 in)-diameter cardboard tubes, timber and steel.[16] The roof is of polycarbon

A very cool electric Fat-Bike

Before heading to my hostel, Kiwi, I stopped at a street bar with tables along the tram line for a beer, enjoying the lively atmosphere. It feels like stress doesn’t exist here, despite the recent terror attack.

Bar, pubs  and restaurants on both side of the tram line. Popular street

Worth waiting for

After a nice beer and relaxing time I cycled back to my hostel, Kiwi for dinner. Seven easy km to Gloucester Street and the weather is prefect for me. most of the backpackers were either out or resting in their rooms so the kirchen was almost empty.

Hostel Kiwis back yard and bicycle parking

My hostels dinner room

Kitchen interior at my hostel

The first thing I had in mind after I got back from town was to go into the bathroom to take a shower. New, fresh towels and then I was ready to cook dinner. I am not a gourmet chef, it is often pasta, rice, sausage, pork or chicken and a beer on my menu and this evening was no exception.

Sometimes I am a little jealous of many others, they cook theirs a little more carefully than I do, vegetables, root vegetables, sauces, spices and it often smells very delicious, but there are often two or more people helping with the preparations.

While eating I also did some work on my blog, sent emails home, did Google research and planned for my continued cycling on the south island.

Earlier I spoke to another bicyclist at this hostel about my journey and he gave me some nice tips. He recommend me to plan my route first south and then northwest up to Tekapo lake.
– You gonna like it he said.  Beautiful roads, scenic surroundings and glaciers.

I asked him about Queenstown, as I had previously heard that it is a popular place for cyclists.

– Yes, it is, but it is also very expensive, almost twice as Christchurch, very crowded and loudly.

I drew up a preliminary route with Google Maps all the way up to Picton. After checking a few waypoints I was quite satisfied with the route. Then I converted it for my Garmin GPS .

Distance to Tekapo lake 260 km and to Haast on the west coast 555 km. All the way to Picton from where the Interislander ferry to Wellington and North Islands depart it´s approximate 1325 km.

After I finished my dinner I sat down outside the dining room and had some chat with other backpackers. Always fun to share  info and listen to other experience.

Despite its autunn the temperature is insanely pleasant, so I decided to take a walk into town and a pubvisit or two. Earlier in the day I had spotted a nice and cozy pub. New Zealand has roots and a  shared cultural heritage with England, also their pubs.

When I came into the city, I headed toward the Avon River and crossed it at the Bridge of Remembrance, a war memorial dedicated to those who served in the World Wars and other conflicts.

Along the street that runs parallel to the river, there are several pubs, all of them well attended this evening.

The bars and pubs are busy; many guests are sitting outside and most of the tables are occupied.

I step into one of them and order a beer. A pleasant atmosphere, as usual in English-inspired pubs.

After about an hour, I suddenly feel tempted when I see a group sitting diagonally across from me ordering a Vodka Collins. I order the same drink. It had been a long time since I last had a sip of alcohol on this journey—I can’t even remember when.

The bartender was in a playful mood that evening. He opened a bottle and poured a few shots onto the bar counter, then took out a lighter and set the shots on fire—to loud cheers from all of us.

At 10:30 p.m., I felt it was time for me to head back to Kiwi Hostel. I took the same route back and now when I crossed the river the war memorial was uplighted.

The Bridge of Remembrance is one of two main war memorials in Christchurch.

I slowly followed the River Avon and then turned onto Gloucester Street and the evening air was still pleasantly mild.

There was plenty of activity in the shared kitchen and dining area. Most people are eating something or just chatting. I noticed  no men in suits or women dressed in long gowns at this hostel, which I appreciate—and it’s unlikely that any will show up either.

Around midnight, I go upstairs and get ready for the night. Before I went to sleep, I checked my email account and saw I received an email from Wayne Chittock, the security woman at the airport. She wrotes something about MPI BACC relating to consignment C2019/117921 asks me to solve ”Attachment”.

All Biosecurity Requirements Met? YES

Which means that the tent is now approved for use on the island. So tomorrow I’m going to cycle to 14 Sir William Pickering Drive, Burnside, outside Christchurch to pick it up.👍🫶.