26 April

I wake up early and first thing I did was visually check the weather. Yesterday’s forecast had said it would stay dry, but a bit windy. When I pulled back the curtains, the sky was light blue and it didn’t look windy either. It´s gonna be a nice day.

Route to Rapahoe Beach, quite easy cycling

My plan is Raphao beach in the evening, about 55-60 km. Up front to Greymount no problems except for puncture!, but otherwise OK.

New tube to switch. In this weather no probs.

I did a short stop i Greymouth before I crossed Gray River or as it was called in Maori Māwheranui.Out from Greymouth the road is little bit curvy and quite boring. When I came to Runanga the time has passed 5 pm and the sky has turned over from  light blue and few cirrus clouds to to slightly more gray clouds, but still lukewarm.
By the road stood a gas station and a convenience store called Top Stop, which doubled as a bar and café, so I popped in for a coffee and a sweet treat.

Coffee break at Top Shop in Runanga

After another 10 km or so, the road takes a direction a little more towards the sea and I now see that the waves have large white backs. Just above Rapahoe I turn down a small road towards the beach just to see the forces of the sea

Maybe It’s gonna be windy tonight

The beach is covered with rocks and all of them are round or oval and soft in shape. These are the kinds of stones that some of the artisans in Hokitika use for their stone paintings and fridge magnets.

After a while, I head back the way I came, and when I reach the main road, I turn north. A few hundred meters later, I spot a sign that says “Motor Camp” and steer my bike down a small, narrow gravel road toward the beach.

A reception building is on the right but I continue along a small path–like road that leads towards a grassy set aside for four or five mobile homes. The place is well protected and there are also poles for power outlets, but then I have to request a key from the reception.

There are also a few poles with taps where I can fill up on drinking water. A large camping table with a bench, overlooking the increasingly stormy sea, feels perfect, so I decided to stay for the night.

The sun is setting and at the place I have now stopped there are already some motorhomes . I set up the tent with a view of the sea and the waves that have now grown even bigger.

Lovley sunset at Rapahoe beach

After pitching up my tent, I unpack the food and camping bags, then settle in at the camping table for dinner.

Time to cook

The sunset over the horizon is awesomely beautiful and I sit for a long time and just enjoy it while drinking my freshly brewed coffee. At 8 pm it is time for a night‘s rest and a downloaded history program from p1 about Alfonso Capone and his time as a gangster king.

See yeah later after the Gold Coast
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

I wake up at seven, make a quick stop at the bathroom, and head down to the breakfast room. The kitchen is empty, and I’m the first one there, aside from the reception guy getting breakfast ready.

Today there is no waiting time to get the pancakes ready. I put three fairly even batters in the pan for my pancakes, three toasted French breads and a plate of muesli and milk.

Around half past nine I check out, take my bags and bike and walk down the street towards the bus stop.

It is only about 400 meters, however, the panniers and bags bags are many so I ask at the gas station if I could borrow their trolley ….

– Is it possible to borrow the trolley standing outside the door?
– Need to carry down some panniers and bags to the bus stop!

After a few seconds of waiting, the lady behind the counter answers…

– Yes, if you promise to bring it back.

The bus to Hoketika arrived 09:15 am sharp.

The bus is quite full and I get a seat next to a younger woman. The bus driver not only drives the bus, he is also a kind of tourist ambassador and tells  with empathy about the places we pass.

Morning light fog over Lake Mapourika

The weather is autumn-like, little bit chilly but sunny. Our first stop at a glacier lake, Lake  Mapourka. It is completely windless, only the fog banks on the west side are moving.

The bus driver continues to tell us about traffic accidents, tourist attractions and everything that has to do with the region. I like that.  Our next stop  at Harihari, a small hamlet. Only few houses, gasstation with a small shop selling souvenirs, coffee, sandwiches, hotdogs and candies, etc

I think the bus driver only stops to benefit the gas station and the tourist shop, not because the bus needed fuel, but so what.

Just before noon we crosses river Hokitika before we arrived Hokitika.

Bridge over Hokitika river

Stops middle of town and I had already checked out where the bicycle workshop lies, google is a good friend. Just a few hundred meters away and I also had booked two nights at a hostel, Mountain Jade Backpackers.

I steered the bicycle into the bicycle shop and after an inspection of the rear wheel, the man in the bike shop says…

– The tyre is broken and You need a new one.
– You also need two new spokes.
– Right now, I’m very busy so You can’t get Your bike ready until morning afternoon

– Tomorrow afternoon?  I replied questioningly
– Unfortunately, but tomorrow it’s ANSAC Day and we have closed until 1 pm.

Just to accept that

So what is ANSAC Day?

Well, it is a public holiday in New Zealand, Australia, the Cook Islands, Niue, Samoa and Tonga to honour those who fought against the Turks during
World War I and landed on the peninsula in the Aegean Sea and the Battle of Gallipoli.

ANZAC posters like this one all over the city. Every year on April 25. Since 1920 it is a public holiday.

ANSAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps.

Almost all shops will be either preferably closed or until 1 p.m. in honor of the brave soldiers and their sacrifices.

Mountain Jade Backpackers – My hotel for two nights

Hokitika is a small town, approximately 2900 habitants and it’s a popular tourist destination known for its stunning natural scenery. Hokitika has more galleries and studios per capita than anywhere else in New Zealand. You will found pounamu and bone carvers, photographers, painters, glassblowers, sculptors, woodturners, ceramists, jewelers, metal, stone and textile artists.

Made by textile artists.

When I late afternoon pick up the bike everything is fixed but the price was a little bit expensive, just over 1000 SEK. But then I have fresh tires front and rear, new spokes and adjusted rear wheel, also two new packs of inner tube. Be damn if it won‘t be enough until the flight from Auckland on May 15th.

In the evening, it‘s time to stand in the kitchen and prepare the evening‘s gourmet dinner. At this hostel it‘s mostly young girls between 20–27 years old that I get to hang out with.
Tonight, chef P–G has spruced up the menu. There will be smoked mussels and sausages as well as Riotta and Basli Ravioli, a Black 8.6% beer then coffee and some chocolate biscuits.
I have to tell you that it tasted really good.

Next day I just did nothing other than vistit some stores, camping  seems to be popular in New Zealand and Hokitika because there are always shops selling everything needed for a nature experience in the open air.
Weapons can also be found in some of these stores!, and many of them are American models.

In the evening and after dinner I took a walk around the city and headed towards the beach. The first thing I noticed was a huge sign above my head made of floating branches H O K I T I K A

H O K I T I K A SIGN

The beach is almost empty, just me, a few young people and dog owners, to walk their valuable pets and they seem to enjoy running free. But after the very long beach, 8 km, there are lots of floating branches and logs on land.

I imagine some of these branches and logs are gathered by craftsmen to carve into works of art, later sold in one or more of the city’s craft shops. I’ve come across a few examples of this.

Lots of driftwood along the beach

Huge one, maybe to large for handicrafters to manage?

Same procedur as yesterday, except the food. Early bed because tomorrow I heading up north after the coast and I beeen told its goona be windy.

Talk to you later
P–G
// The Global Cyclist

20-22 April
Fox and Frans Josef Glaciers

I wake up to the sound of rain pouring down while the ocean roars, open my eyes, look outside and decide to stay inside until the worst is over.

Fixing my flat tire in this weather is not on my schedule at the moment. Half an hour later the rain has almost stopped but the sky was still dark grey so I rush out and change the tube.

This cove is apparently popular, tourists in cars arrive in a constant stream and many of them look Asian and they all seem to want to pass my tent site to get to their optimal spot as a favorite photo spot.

I had to ask one of the women to take a different route past my tent because they keep tearing the ropes loose while looking for the perfect photo composition.

Nothing lasts forever, not even my tires. The rear ones are worn out so I change both the tire and the tube.

New tube and tyre and Tasman sea roaring

Just before noon I set off. Today’s destination is Fox Glacier, about 50 km north. With the drizzle and the wind, I’m not sure I want to continue then.

The route follows the rugged and remote coastline, through a varied mix of coastal and forest landscapes, with breathtaking views and dramatic changes in landscape. Despite the bad weather, I can enjoy the scenery and surroundings.

As I continue my bike ride, the high Southern Alps begin to come into view, especially as I approach Fox Glacier. Very fascinating, first the roaring sea at Bruce bay and then the glaciers.

Along the way I pass small wetlands and streams flowing down from the mountains, with patches of moss and ferns giving everything a fresh and clean feeling

I make a few short stops to rest and enjoy the surroundings. The road is still narrow and a common sight is the white text “One Lane Bridge” painted on the road.

Very common with “One Lane Bridge” text on the roasds when crossing rivers or streams

Just before 4pm I arrive in Fox Glacier township, with lots of people moving around. The first thing I did was visit at a grocery store for provisioning bread, cheese and a can of beer.

My plan is to find a nice place to camp, but first a stop at a pub for coffee and some sweets.

While I’m on a café break the rain starts again, my joy of camping in the wilderness diminishes.

Across the road there is a big sign showing Fox Glacier’s 10 best holiday parks, just a few hundred meters down.

I google and find out that it is a caravan park with reception, kitchen, dining room with TV, shower, laundry and drying room, I don’t hesitate.

Fox Glacier Holiday Park was a positiv visit

Cooking and eating indoors and having the opportunity to dry your sleeping bag and wet clothes is worth a lot.

I found a secluded tent site under a giant oak tree, next to the main building.

I able to lock my bike under a roof building that is usually used as a kitchen, but not today. The building has no heat, and most campers use the indoor kitchen instead.

I bring my sleeping bag, pillow and anything else that is wet or damp. The dryer costs 1 NZD. While I’m cooking I hear a familiar language spoken in the background, Swedish.

Two young people from Gothenburg, also on touring bikes, have appeared. They are cycling in the opposite direction to Christchurch and we exchange information with each other. It’s always fun to meet other Swedes and speak Swedish, the last time I got to speak Swedish was in Bangkok.

After dinner, coffee and some TV back to the bike with a few things and to get a shower towel. A hot shower is always a treat.

Outside the rain is puring down och it’s chilly, a typical Swedish autumn.

Around 9 pm I crawling down in my tumble dried Marmot sleeping bag and accompanied by the rain falling on the tent canvas…

See Yeah Later

P-G
//The Global Cyclist

19-20 April

Waking up in good time and getting ready for today‘s bike ride, Bruce Bay or nearby is today‘s goal, about 70 Km.  The sun is already up as I head north along the coast, the road flat but the headwind strong, with the sea just to my left.

After just under 18 km, I spot the sign for Ship Creek Walk, one of the many UNESCO World Heritage sites. I cycle towards a parkingspace beside some small buildings.

Ships Creek Walk visitor shelter and viewpoint tower

Information signs tell me that the place is a nature reserve with two very short walking trails where you can experience typical nature from New Zealand’s wild west coast, swamps and marshland, sand dunes and coastal forests.

Lots of drift wood on the beach

Panorama over Ships Creek Walk beach

Two boardwalks guide you around, but unfortunately there was plenty of small black insects that are just too nasty to deal with, so I head back to the bike and continue north.

As soon as I got onto Highway 6, the first climb of the day began, and it turned out to be quite a long one.Almost 10 km up to the top of this hillop,, Knights Point lookout.

Long tiring upphill… but it was worth it

Knights Point Lookout offers a stunning panoramic view of the Tasman Sea and a well needed rest for my tired and numb legs. The view is scenic, gorgeous, and amazing, just like the weather. I parked my bike near a large table, set up my camping kitchen, and made some food and coffee.

View over Tasman sea from Knights point and Arnott point in background

View over Tasman sea north

Why it’s called “Knights Point”? The name has surprisingly a funny origin.When this coastal road was being built in the 1950s–1960s, two construction crews, one from north, the other crew from south were working toward each other along the coast. They eventually met at this spot while finishing the highway.

Government officials later came to choose a name for the place. They wanted to name it after an important official from Wellington.

But the workers said the place already had a name: “Knights Point.”

The officials asked who “Knight” was. The workers explained that Knight was the name of the surveyor’s dog, owned by surveyor Norman McGeorge.

The dog often joined the surveying team while they worked.hile they worked, so the workers started using the dog’s name for that place.

 – I love this 24/7 – 

I leave Knights Point satisfied and heading north.  My plan today is Bruce Bay. After a few km, I leave the coastline and steer northwest through the countryside on a winding and hilly road. Either way, the surroundings are worth the hard work. Green vegetation and awesomely beautiful and mighty mountains.

The creeks  that all have a name there are thirteen out of a dozen, most of them are small and many of them live a bit of a “dry life“ right now, others a little bigger but even these have had their high season.

Most are completely crushed, while others look fairly intact. I’ve probably seen hundreds of them, without really counting. The furry animal is a possum, an invasive predator.

One of many dead possums after the roads

Farmers dislike them, fearing they could spread plague to sheep and cows, and they also harm the ecosystem.  After crossing the third river today, I spotted a sign for a bar and café—South Westland Salmon Farm, just 300 meters on the left. It couldn’t be more perfect.

The Paringa River at low water level which the cows are using

Two hundred meter from mainroad it’s show up. The bar and cafe are perched on poles above three large salmon ponds, set near the Paringa River, surrounded by tall trees and dense vegetation, in the background high mountains towering up. Very beautiful place.

Entrance into Salmon farm and café

I order coffe and a wheat-bun creation , 10 NZ$.

Salmon Farm and Cafe Proverb

Salmon ponds

The café lies very beautiful, 200 meters from mainroad and surrounded by tall trees and dense vegetation, in the background high mountains towering up.

Overview from Salmon Farm and Cafe

After a nice and needed break I was ready for my last leg today. Approximaetly 17-18 km to Bruce Bay. The sky has turned to darker, heavier clouds, and wind and rain could be on the way so I speed up a little. No fun to pitch up a tent in rain and storm.

About five kilometres from Bruce Bay I noticed my rear tyre was flat. It’s not a big hole, but the air is slowly leaking out.

I don’t have the energy to take off all my bags and change the tube when I’m this close, so I’m hoping some pumps will get me to my final destination for the day.

I’ll fix the puncture tomorrow morning!

Five!! I had to stop five times to fill the tire before I reached my destination for the day. A large parking lot on the left side of the road called Bruce Bay.

Arriving Bruce Bay and the wearher seems to get worse

A few cars are already parked here, and from what I could see they were fishing. I looked for a free spot for my tent at the far end of the parking lot. It was just gravel, but no problem setting up the tent and getting the tent pegs down.

While I was setting up the tent, the weather was getting worse by the minute, and the waves were getting higher and higher. The last thing that needed to be done was to cover my bike with the waterproof bike cover and anchor it to the ground.

It was almost a storm now, strong winds from the Tasman Sea.

I fell asleep around 9pm but woke up several times during the night and noticed the tent swaying a lot from the wind and the rain slapping against the canvas. Luckily I had set up all the tent guylines.

April 14-15

Today I’m leaving Twizel and heading towards Wanaka. The first thing I noticed when I walked to the kitchen and dining area was that parts of the lawn were white. It was frost. Good to keep this in mind, as the road may be slippery—especially in places that have been shaded. I’ve checked the weatherforcast for coming days and they promised sunny weather and only light winds.

Crossing one Of many creeks and rivers. – Ahuriri river before Omarama –

Most of the backpackers seems to have  seems to have taking lie-in, I’m almost completely alone in the kitchen. Just before 10 A.M I turn right from High Country Lodge & Backpackers hostel and follow road 8. The sun is shining from almost cloud free sky and the road is flat.

Around noon I arrive at Omarama, a roadside tavern The Wrinkly Ram on my left side became my first stop today. Lots of people sitting outside and eating lunch and I’ll joined them.

Wrinkly Rams roadside tavern was popular place to join

Inside the restaurant it’s a que, seems to be a popular place. Coffee, a big sandwich and a smoked sheep sausage will be my lunch and I take my tray and sit outside in the sunshine. This restaurant has also a shop where they sells clothes, gloves, hats and other things that can be made from sheep’s wool.

Different wool quality

Half a hour later I was on the road again and next  waypoint is Lindis Pass , 33 km away. First part quite easy. The road goes through valleys and cattle meadows, then winds slowly between the mountains that get higher and more powerful with each km.

Short break and trying out my new leather hat made from sheepskin

Something that is a bit amusing about New Zealand is that all the creeks that pass under the road have names: Lindis Creek, Sheepskin Creek, Shoulders Creek, and so on.

Thirty minutes later I had Lindis Pass in my sight and 3 km to viewpoint

Lindis Pass ahead of me

Lindis Pass is one of New Zealand’s most beautiful mountain passes. 971 m.a.s.l.

Lindis Pass, alpine landscape, with its tall, tussock-covered mountains, is stunning to view. The hills look like soft, down-filled pillows that I would like to rest my head against.

Almost 1000 m above the sea level

From here, it’s mostly downhill to my tent camp in the valley. I take it slow, not entirely sure if the road surface might be slippery. It’s barely 5–6 degrees where the sun still reaches.

Down through Lindis Pass

By 6 p.m., I’ve reached smoother ground, and the fading sunlight seems to say it’s time to pitch the tent. The air has turned really chilly, so I pull on my gloves to keep my hands warm. Just past a large bend in the road, I spot a detour through a gate with a sign reading “Private, No Entry.”

I park the bike just to the right of the gate, where a green patch offers plenty of space to set up camp. With no houses or people nearby to ask, and no signs forbidding camping, I go ahead and pitch the tent.

Half an hour later, I’m sitting inside preparing dinner: brown rice with bacon, sandwiches, coffee, and a tiny bit of wirre.

Feeling a bit chilly, as I crawl my Marmot sleeping bag, put in my earbuds, and try to finish episode six of the radio serial “The Suite”. Of course, I drift off before the 26-minute episode wraps up. An hour later, I wake to find complete darkness outside; every now and then, a car rushes past, but they’re rare and far between.

See yeah from Wanaka
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

 Old and abandoned barn

Next morning
I slept like a log last night, first ting I did was to looking out and  just to notice that is little bit chilly and foggy. After my breakfast I feelt ready and excited for todays cykling to Wanaka och lake Hawea.
It’s so cold that I’m tempted to bring out the down gloves, but I think I’ll hold off a bit longer. First part of the road is narrow and winding, only few small slopes to climp. Follows the Lindis river. The surroundings is dry and golden hill covered with tussock grass and schist rock.

By half past ten the sun has picked up strength, and so have I. A decent climb up Cluden Hill Summit over just under 4 km, about 10 km from Tarras, makes the body heat rise.
At the very top of Cluden Hill a parking space where I stop for rest my tired legs. It’s also a viewpoint from where you can view down 100 metre decent into Lindis valley, captivating view.

Although I will not complain, the views down through the valley and the weather which has now become pleasant were worth all the effort.

Lindis Valley from Cliden Hill Summit, an adorable and scenic view.

Lindis Valley from Cliden Hill Summit, an adorable and scenic view.

After 4 km climbing up Cluden hill

45 minutes later I steered my bike into the cafe in Tarras, Tarras Country Café. The sky was clear blue and the air was warm. A lovely autumn day, perfect for cycling.

Tarras is a small village with a few houses, a cozy café, a country store where you can buy sweaters and clothes from the local sheep and a small souvenir shop with slightly better quality items.

 Tarras center, gasstation, café and merino wool shop

The café Tarras Country Café is cozy and in the middle of a long wall they have an open fireplace where the fire is lit.

A female proverb written in chalk adorns another wall and arouses my interest.

Tarras café proverb

I order a cup of tea and a warm scone with butter from the menu in front of me, skipping the coffee as the aroma of tea drifting from the kitchen changes my mind.

Warm scones with homemade butter and te

I sit outside in the warm autumn sun that is now doing its best to warm up a cyclist. The woman in the café soon comes out with the tray with my scones, a plate of yellowish butter and a large cup of tea. She also sets out a jug for refills.

Sitting and enjoying something in the middle of the autumn sun. The scones were probably freshly baked because they tasted absolutely excellent.

Before I head Wanaka, I took a look at the country store where wool products and merino wool sweaters are neatly laid out.

I follow road 8A, first part is wide with rolling terrain, big skies and long views toward the Dunstan Mountains dominate the horizon.

No wind at all today, but if there was it would be quite tough as there are no trees and little protection from the wind. Then the surroundings change to wide river terraces and farmland.

After 15-16 km the road reaches the Clutha River which winds like a snake. Where the river bends there is a green spot which is perfect for stopping for a little photo opportunity.

Clutha river with its turquoise water perfect match to surroundings autum color

A few others did the same as me. The river below is a deep blue or turquoise, probably due to glacial sediments, like Lake Tekapo.

Some kilometres later I cross the river at a historic red bridge, a beautiful steel structure. A sign says it is a one-way bridge so I have to be careful of oncoming traffic.

Big Red Bridge over Clutha river. A truss bridge open 1915

The road follows the Upper Clutha River valley, orchards, vineyards and pastures appear and still no headwind.

Five km before Wanaka I pass an airfield and some hang gliders land. The airfield arranges transport to glaciers, for hiking and fishing.

Near the airfield is a large building, the National Transport and Toy Museum, with old planes and vehicles.

National Transport and Toy musem in Wanaka

There is also a toy shop with a special section for Star Wars items. A sign at the entrance says that the museum has 60,000 toys, 650 vehicles and 20 planes.

Inside the toy shop is a pub that I visited. A cold beer is always a cold beer.

Continue another 10 km to Wānaka, it is a popular ski and summer resort and is very beautifully situated at the southern end of Lake Wanaka. Lots of sailboats are moored at the marina.

Entrace to Wanaka from south east

Wanaka marina in southern Wanaka Lake

I only stop to withdraw money and have a coffee break at a pub. Then I follow the lake a little north and stop at a small grocery store in Albert Town for supplies.

I arrived at the southern end of Lake Hawea just before 6:00 PM. As the sun sets, I look for a nice spot to pitch my Hilleberg tent.

A sign leads me to a holiday campsite just a few hundred metres north. Very close to the shores of Lake Hawea, a perfectly green and clean place to camp.

Tent camp Lake Hawea

The whole area is well-kept and clean. Not much rubbish to see and the information at the recycling centre says that the best way to recycle is to be resource efficient and buy as little as possible to save our planet. I can’t help but agree.

Picking up my camping gear and preparing tonight’s dinner, the air is still warm so no problem eating outside.

The sun sets and only a few ripples on the lake, almost no wind. The place and the evening are so beautiful that I get goosebumps.

At half past nine I’m already in my sleeping bag with headphones listening to the fifth chapter of “The Suite”.

See yeah from Haast Pass
P-G
//The Global Cyclist