12 April

During the night it has drizzled off and on, and it still does. When I open the tent and look out towards Mount Cook, it looks like it will clear up later in the morning. Despite that, I choose not to start cycling in rain gear. After some km pedaling the drizzle turns into more persistent, stops and change to rain gear.

Time for change, the drizzle has turn over to persistent rain

The road follow the lake all the way to Pukaki canal and I did a short stop at Punatahu (Pukaki) visitor center .

The tribute to Aoraki, Mount Cook is great among the indigenous people

The center has a caf’e and you can also buy fresch salmon from the lake, like other similars centers the prices are high. But the view over the lake and Mount Cook  (Aoraki) is for free and it’s breathtaking despite the cloydy weather. When it was time for me to continue the sky became brighter and a few rays of sunlight shone through, like I had guessed in the morning.

Until Twizel the road was flat but I had lots of headwind and the first ting I had in my mind was to search for a café or a bar.
Order coffee and a bowl with Pommes Frites.

They also have free WiFi so I open Hotels.com app and serach for a place to stay two nights, a place with laundry machine. Received a proposal for some hotels with exclusive prices but I choose a cheaper alternative, High Country Lodge and Backpackers and booked two nights.

High Country Lodge and Backpackers just two minutes cycling away. No probs to get a room and quite cheap. Most rooms are located in long barracks with shared bathrooms.

Most rooms are located in long barracks.

Each barracks has its own laundry room with washing machine.

Hostel was OK and the kitchen part was very clean and fresh and good WiFi

After inchecking, and locking up  my bike, I went into the shower room with a bathtub. I filled it with hot—very hot—water, jumped in, and opened a cold beer… Yippee-ki-yay, I felt like I was in heaven. I had also put in some clothes and  my sleeping bag into washing machine before….

9-12 April

To Twizel I’ve calculate with two overnights camping, 225 km is too much for just one tentcamping.  From Rangitata I turn right and heading for Gerladine, best of all I left the main road and follow a more winding and low traffic road.

Cycling from Rakaia to Twizel feels like riding straight into the heart of New Zealand’s magnificent landscapes. I leave the wide Canterbury Plains behind and pedal into an open, golden high country where the wind plays across the fields and the mountains slowly rise on the horizon.

 There is lots of cows in New Zealand, almost five million

Possums fur is warm and cozy and can be useful for anything.

Very cute and cuddly donky

I did some shorter stops and breaks and in Geraldine I visit a café at turistcenter and before I left village I did some supplies at the only supermarket the have.

Outside Gerladine I saw a rest place with a large tabel under a huge oak tree. A brass plaque screwed to the oak tree said it was planted in 1953 to commemorate the visit of Elizabeth II.

Pitched my tent near the oak and the table, and locked my bike to the table leg. After dinner I made a fire by with dry twigs of the oak so a really cozy evening.

Tent camp with fire outside Geraldine

The road follows valleys and light turquoise rivers, and the closer you get to Mackenzie Country, the more dramatic the scenery becomes — with snow-capped peaks in the distance and that endless sense of space that only New Zealand can offer.

The next day up and down, winding roads and beautiful surroundings. The valleys and mountains in the background are adorable and it is appreciated by all the cattle grazing in the large meadows.

I’ve seen signs for Farm Barn Cafe and  a pointing view three times . At the top of mount Michael on my right side I saw the sign again.  I really needed this rest, especially for my legs.
The cafe is simply more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs, expensive sweaters, gloves, merino wool hats, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.. The cafe is just more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs,  precious sweaters, glows, merino wool beanies, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.

– Long coffee, black, no sugar and cream
– and a bacon pie
I got a numbered sign to put on my table and sat down outside

Took the numbered signs and sat me out under the porch. The sun peeks through the clouds and the mountains in the background keep me company for an hour and In the sun its quite warm.

View from Farm Barn Café

Then mostly downhill and scenic views through the valley and to Fairli. It is a small village, fishing, mountain and hiking tourism is offered. Buy dinner in the village’s only larger grocery store.

Then a long straight road with a headwind. I stopped at a farm that sold eggs, because I had forgotten to buy water. A Jack Russell comes towards me and barks, no one else is in sight.
After a few minutes a white SUV appears. A women vevar ner sidofönstret and I asked…

– Do you live here?
– Yes, I do svarar hon
– I need to refill my bottles with water, can you help me?
– Yes, of course

I follow her to the gable of the house where there is a rough entrance and laundry room. I fill up all the bottles and then head to Burke’s Pass. I’ve been told that some rain later so I speed up a little.

I find a suitable place just as I arrive at Burke’s pass on my right side. A path that leads into the forest and a suitable area right by a closed and locked gate will be my place tonight.

Sometimes reality surpasses the dream

Just had time to pitch the tent and bring in my luggage before the pouring rain comes down. Feels nice to sit under the tent canvas reasonably dry and prepare the evening’s food.

When I  finally roll into Tekapo after two days cycling  , surrounded by crisp alpine air and close to Aoraki / Mount Cook, it feels as though every pedal stroke has been part of an adventure through a living postcard. 🚴‍♂️The weather  has been little chilly and also some rain, a few hills to climb and winding roads.

When I arrived Tekapo it was almost noon and I noticed that the lakes color was turqoise , a breathtaking destination in the heart of New Zealand’s South Island.

I had read that the picturesque lake was famous for its stunning turquoise water, but this was more striking and amazing than I could have imagined in my imagination, and on top of that Tekapo is surrounded by a majestic mountain, Mount Cook or in the Maori language Aoraki, dressed in white!

Lake Tekapo famous for its turquoise water color

The water in Lake Tekapo and surrounding lakes, rivers and streams is turquoise in color due to what is called glacial flour.

It is extremely finely ground rock powder that is formed when glaciers grind down bedrock from the mountains, especially from the area around Aoraki / Mount Cook. When the meltwater flows into the lake, it takes these microscopic particles with it.

The particles are so small that they remain suspended in the water, scattering sunlight in a unique way.

If it had been a sunny day, the lake’s turquoise color would have been even more pronounced, despite the cloudy weather it was almost a surreal turquoise color.

The small village of Lake Tekapo, with a population of just little more than 500, is home to the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd.

Church_of_the_Good_Shepherd
This church is among the most photographed spots in New Zealand, thanks to its stunning setting on Lake Tekapo with the Southern Alps providing a breathtaking backdrop.

Tekapo It’s a very popular place, especially for backpackers, but also quite expensive.

I stopped for a few hours, had some light lunch at an eatery and bar with the name Mackenzies Cafe Bar & Grill. Ordered a good pie and coffee
and, to my great surprise, refill included for free, first time ever during this bicycle tour.

Before heading south and lake Pukaki I took a “walk about” nearby, walked over the footbridge to Church of Good Shepheard, visit Herding Dog monument and marveled at the beauty of Tekapo.

Herding dog has always been sheep farmers best friend

11 April Afternoon
After some hours in a busy Tekapo I was on the bike again. My plan now was to cycle to Lake Pukaki, 40 km south.

Illama grazing

The road down to Lake Pukaki was breathtakingly beautiful, but dark clouds were gathering, so I had to pedal a bit harder. It’s no fun pitching a tent in the rain.

The rain is on its way

Valley before Lake Pukaki

I arrived at Lake Pukaki. A large parking lot and viewpoint became my final destination for the evening. Next to the viewpoint was a walking path with some  trees and bushes that could hide my tent from view. A sign said that camping was not allowed, but I took a chance.

Tent camping Pukaki lake

Tomorrow will be a short day on the bike — I’m planning to stay two nights in Twizel. I need to wash clothes and freshen myself up.

See Yeah from Twizel

P-G
//The Global Cyclist

I slept late, ate breakfast and rode my bike to town to look for a new handlebar bag holder. It was hard to find the right model, so I kept searching and explored Christchurch.

Outside the mosque there were lots of flowers and stuffed animals and police guarded the area. A completely incomprehensible event and it becomes even more incomprehensible when you are so close.

Linwood Islamic Centre was a Sunni Islamic mosque in Linwood, opened in 2018 and later targeted in the 2019 by a massacre carried out by Brenton Tarrant, his second attack same day!

I read a little at the posters and pictures and get teary–eyed. It takes a while before I regain some kind of peace.

After a hour and half I entered New Brighton which is bathed in sunshine. The beach resort is not large, just under 2500 inhabitants but has a gigantic long beach, 17–18 km. As all other beach villages lots of small shops that sells souvenirs and knick-knacks, cafés and bars.

Brighton Mall pedistrain street

New Brighton is a coastal suburb of Christchurch,  It is one of eastern Christchurch’s main entertainment and tourist centres. The most striking thing about New Brighton is the 300-meter-long pier and its 18 km-long, child- and dog-friendly beach.

What characterizes New Brighton is its unique pier that stretches straight 300 meters straight into the sea. It was rebuilt and completed in 1997 and then repaired in 2016 after the earthquake that happened here in 2011.

New Brighton Pier 300-meter-long landmark for Christchurch.

It‘s not just two–legged people who see this beach as a playground, our four–legged friends also love this beach and today there are many who walk their doggies after it.

Gigantic armchair

Even dogs like water and this beach

However, there are signs urging owners to keep an eye on their dog and during the high season November to April ril are not allowed to pass the surfers lifesaving clubs within 100 meters without being on a leash.

Almost 18 km long and child-dog friendly

There are some bathing tourists but they are few, the season is partly ove,  however the seagulls are active vocally They like to keep an eye on those standing on the pier and fishermen and also check me out when I open my backpack to get something to eat.

These birds are both curious and thieving so You have to watch up…!

Before I cycle back to the Christchurch a coffee break at pier’s barm Salt On The Pier which is located in the same building as the beach resort‘s library and quite well visited.

I took another route back to Christchurch, follow the Avon river. The road was  winding and low traffic, passing lots of small residential areas. In the river

Avon river flows through small residental areas and a nice cyclepath follow

Seabirds and swans have found their safety after Avon river. A proud and determinated black swan searching something to eat.

Before I‘m back and forth at my hostel, I stop at a supermarket, New World, for some provisions. Later, it will be mostly to laze in the common dining room and kitchen that exists. Here it is never empty. French and French dominate, some from Brazil and some from Germany and then a crazy man from Ö–vik

Something that is typical of the French speakers is their food culture. While I‘m cooking pasta, frying sausages and making some bagged pasta sauce, they‘re preparing stews, pies, boiling vegetables, beating eggs and god knows everything.

If there are three or four pairs, they basically take up the entire kitchen interior including the stove and oven, but where there’s room for one more, there’s room for food.

The atmosphere is good.

See Yeah Later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

The flight over the Tasman Sea to New Zealand is going well, and we land almost exactly at 11:30 PM local time.

I have some comments about the landing. First, the plane tilts quite a bit, almost as if there was a big bump in the middle of the runway. Then, there’s a sudden stop, causing us to almost hit the seat in front of us. Neither I nor anyone else seems to be hurt

After that, I went through passport control, which is self-manned. A scanner reads the passport, and you’re supposed to be allowed into the arrival hall, but not for me and a few others. We have to take the regular route, because on the plane, we had to fill out a form about what we have in our luggage, where we’ve been, and so on.

The form also asks if you have camping equipment, medications, explosives, weapons, and so on.

I indicated that I have a tent and other camping gear and that my last destination was Borneo, where I also camped. The passport control officer wants to take a look at this form and notices that I marked a few “yes” boxes.

Then I’m allowed to proceed towards the exit and the next checkpoint.

The next officer also looks at the form and then asks, “Where is your tent?” I point to my North Face bag, and the officer tells me to follow the red line. There are also yellow and green lines. Now, I’m asked more questions about the tent, and they also want me to produce it.

I hand over my North Face bag to the female passport control officer, she asks me to wait and she walks through a door into an office.

After about 10 minutes, she returns and said…
– We found some ants in your tent, and you have two options. You leave your tent here, and we destroy it for free.

I look at the woman as if she’s joking and said…
 – Destroy?

She responds…
– Yes, but your other option is to let us send the tent for cleaning, but that will cost you about 160 NZD.

What do you do?
Starting an argument with these officers is out of the question, so I asked…
– How many days do I have to wait to get it back?
She replies…
 –  About a week.

I have no choice but to accept their offer, and I provide my address in Christchurch, my phone number, and email address.
She says…
– We’ll send you an email when and where you can pick up your tent.

Sigh, sigh, and more sighs, and now the time it’s almost half past two AM .

I’m tired and realize that my hostel tonight won’t be open when I arrive….

I hade to get out of the terminal with the rest of my bags and try to find a taxi or bus that will take me to the address 373 Gloucester Street.

A  Shuffle bus driver is standing outside at the exit and he asked if I attepting to go into the city. I gave him the address to my hostel .
He asks me to put my luggage in a wire cart that was standing right next to him and then he points to a gray Toyota van that was  standing in the parking lot.

Shuffel taxi at Christchurch airport

There are three more families going in the same direction and we have to share the space in the bus. The driver then reverses the bus towards the entrance and hooks up a large white fully covered trailer. He counts the bags and then we drive to Christchurch in the dark of night.

After dropping off the other families at various hotels in the city center, we head on traffic and deserted streets towards the Linwood district and Kiwi House Hostel.

A large fence surrounds the hostel but a small gate to the left takes me into another door that has an internal radio next to it.

I press the internal radio, just a lot of beeps and two lights shining right in my face. No answer. I‘m thinking about what to do, whether I should stay until they open or leave my luggage and head into the center. I decide that I leave my luggage and head towards the city center to see if anything is open. I leave the luggage in the space between the outer and inner fence.

Before I left, I locked my bags to the fence with the long yellow strap equipped with a combination lock. It took me just over 30 minutes to find my way to the city center, but nothing is open except a hotel with a closed bar.

Before I left, I locked my bags to the fence using the long yellow strap with a combination lock. It took me just over 30 minutes to find my way to the city center, but nothing was open except a hotel with a closed bar.

I was allowed to sit at one of the window tables. The girl at the reception gave me a mug of hot water, and in my backpack, I had a packet of instant coffe so I could stay awake…

Then I slowly walk back to the hostel and just wait. After waiting for about half an hour, the gate door suddenly swings open and a young girl comes out.

She obviously hadn’t expected me to be standing there and lets out a short scream.

We talk for a while and I show her the SMS message I received from the Hostel and explain why I‘m standing here with a bike box and six bags.

 – If I let you in, I could be fined 500 NZD$ from the host, says the girl.

 – Wait here and I‘ll go in and talk to someone.

She comes back within five minutes with a face–scarred guy. They let me in and I get help with the packing. I‘m now so tired that I feel bad. I drink several cups of coffee while I wait for the staff to show up at 8.

While I‘m sitting at one of the wooden tables, more and more people come down to the kitchen to eat breakfast. It is now eight o‘clock and the door next to the reception is unlocked. A younger woman already knows that I have booked and says that I can not get a bed until after ten.

She shows me the TV lounge and says than…
 – You can sleep at the sofa while we are preparing your bed.
Al–Jazira is the only news program I could find, but I let it allowed to sound in the background while I tryed to fall asleep, which I do eventually.

…zzZZzz…

See yah later
P-G
// TheGlobalCyclist1719