Road to my next milestone – Twizel

9-12 April

To Twizel I’ve calculate with two overnights camping, 225 km is too much for just one tentcamping.  From Rangitata I turn right and heading for Gerladine, best of all I left the main road and follow a more winding and low traffic road.

Cycling from Rakaia to Twizel feels like riding straight into the heart of New Zealand’s magnificent landscapes. I leave the wide Canterbury Plains behind and pedal into an open, golden high country where the wind plays across the fields and the mountains slowly rise on the horizon.

 There is lots of cows in New Zealand, almost five million

Possums fur is warm and cozy and can be useful for anything.

Very cute and cuddly donky

I did some shorter stops and breaks and in Geraldine I visit a café at turistcenter and before I left village I did some supplies at the only supermarket the have.

Outside Gerladine I saw a rest place with a large tabel under a huge oak tree. A brass plaque screwed to the oak tree said it was planted in 1953 to commemorate the visit of Elizabeth II.

Pitched my tent near the oak and the table, and locked my bike to the table leg. After dinner I made a fire by with dry twigs of the oak so a really cozy evening.

Tent camp with fire outside Geraldine

The road follows valleys and light turquoise rivers, and the closer you get to Mackenzie Country, the more dramatic the scenery becomes — with snow-capped peaks in the distance and that endless sense of space that only New Zealand can offer.

The next day up and down, winding roads and beautiful surroundings. The valleys and mountains in the background are adorable and it is appreciated by all the cattle grazing in the large meadows.

I’ve seen signs for Farm Barn Cafe and  a pointing view three times . At the top of mount Michael on my right side I saw the sign again.  I really needed this rest, especially for my legs.
The cafe is simply more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs, expensive sweaters, gloves, merino wool hats, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.. The cafe is just more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs,  precious sweaters, glows, merino wool beanies, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.

– Long coffee, black, no sugar and cream
– and a bacon pie
I got a numbered sign to put on my table and sat down outside

Took the numbered signs and sat me out under the porch. The sun peeks through the clouds and the mountains in the background keep me company for an hour and In the sun its quite warm.

View from Farm Barn Café

Then mostly downhill and scenic views through the valley and to Fairli. It is a small village, fishing, mountain and hiking tourism is offered. Buy dinner in the village’s only larger grocery store.

Then a long straight road with a headwind. I stopped at a farm that sold eggs, because I had forgotten to buy water. A Jack Russell comes towards me and barks, no one else is in sight.
After a few minutes a white SUV appears. A women vevar ner sidofönstret and I asked…

– Do you live here?
– Yes, I do svarar hon
– I need to refill my bottles with water, can you help me?
– Yes, of course

I follow her to the gable of the house where there is a rough entrance and laundry room. I fill up all the bottles and then head to Burke’s Pass. I’ve been told that some rain later so I speed up a little.

I find a suitable place just as I arrive at Burke’s pass on my right side. A path that leads into the forest and a suitable area right by a closed and locked gate will be my place tonight.

Sometimes reality surpasses the dream

Just had time to pitch the tent and bring in my luggage before the pouring rain comes down. Feels nice to sit under the tent canvas reasonably dry and prepare the evening’s food.

When I  finally roll into Tekapo after two days cycling  , surrounded by crisp alpine air and close to Aoraki / Mount Cook, it feels as though every pedal stroke has been part of an adventure through a living postcard. 🚴‍♂️The weather  has been little chilly and also some rain, a few hills to climb and winding roads.

When I arrived Tekapo it was almost noon and I noticed that the lakes color was turqoise , a breathtaking destination in the heart of New Zealand’s South Island.

I had read that the picturesque lake was famous for its stunning turquoise water, but this was more striking and amazing than I could have imagined in my imagination, and on top of that Tekapo is surrounded by a majestic mountain, Mount Cook or in the Maori language Aoraki, dressed in white!

Lake Tekapo famous for its turquoise water color

The water in Lake Tekapo and surrounding lakes, rivers and streams is turquoise in color due to what is called glacial flour.

It is extremely finely ground rock powder that is formed when glaciers grind down bedrock from the mountains, especially from the area around Aoraki / Mount Cook. When the meltwater flows into the lake, it takes these microscopic particles with it.

The particles are so small that they remain suspended in the water, scattering sunlight in a unique way.

If it had been a sunny day, the lake’s turquoise color would have been even more pronounced, despite the cloudy weather it was almost a surreal turquoise color.

The small village of Lake Tekapo, with a population of just little more than 500, is home to the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd.

Church_of_the_Good_Shepherd
This church is among the most photographed spots in New Zealand, thanks to its stunning setting on Lake Tekapo with the Southern Alps providing a breathtaking backdrop.

Tekapo It’s a very popular place, especially for backpackers, but also quite expensive.

I stopped for a few hours, had some light lunch at an eatery and bar with the name Mackenzies Cafe Bar & Grill. Ordered a good pie and coffee
and, to my great surprise, refill included for free, first time ever during this bicycle tour.

Before heading south and lake Pukaki I took a ”walk about” nearby, walked over the footbridge to Church of Good Shepheard, visit Herding Dog monument and marveled at the beauty of Tekapo.

Herding dog has always been sheep farmers best friend

11 April Afternoon
After some hours in a busy Tekapo I was on the bike again. My plan now was to cycle to Lake Pukaki, 40 km south.

Illama grazing

The road down to Lake Pukaki was breathtakingly beautiful, but dark clouds were gathering, so I had to pedal a bit harder. It’s no fun pitching a tent in the rain.

The rain is on its way

Valley before Lake Pukaki

I arrived at Lake Pukaki. A large parking lot and viewpoint became my final destination for the evening. Next to the viewpoint was a walking path with some  trees and bushes that could hide my tent from view. A sign said that camping was not allowed, but I took a chance.

Tent camping Pukaki lake

Tomorrow will be a short day on the bike — I’m planning to stay two nights in Twizel. I need to wash clothes and freshen myself up.

See Yeah from Twizel

P-G
//The Global Cyclist