The Glaciers

20-22 April
Fox and Frans Josef Glaciers

I wake up to the sound of rain pouring down while the ocean roars, open my eyes, look outside and decide to stay inside until the worst is over.

Fixing my flat tire in this weather is not on my schedule at the moment. Half an hour later the rain has almost stopped but the sky was still dark grey so I rush out and change the tube.

This cove is apparently popular, tourists in cars arrive in a constant stream and many of them look Asian and they all seem to want to pass my tent site to get to their optimal spot as a favorite photo spot.

I had to ask one of the women to take a different route past my tent because they keep tearing the ropes loose while looking for the perfect photo composition.

Nothing lasts forever, not even my tires. The rear ones are worn out so I change both the tire and the tube.

Just before noon I set off. Today’s destination is Fox Glacier, about 50 km north. With the drizzle and the wind, I’m not sure I want to continue then.

The route follows the rugged and remote coastline, through a varied mix of coastal and forest landscapes, with breathtaking views and dramatic changes in landscape. Despite the bad weather, I can enjoy the scenery and surroundings.

As I continue my bike ride, the high Southern Alps begin to come into view, especially as I approach Fox Glacier. Very fascinating, first the roaring sea at Bruce bay and then the glaciers.

Along the way I pass small wetlands and streams flowing down from the mountains, with patches of moss and ferns giving everything a fresh and clean feeling

I make a few short stops to rest and enjoy the surroundings. The road is still narrow and a common sight is the white text “One Lane Bridge” painted on the road.

Just before 4pm I arrive in Fox Glacier township, with lots of people moving around. The first thing I did was visit at a grocery store for provisioning bread, cheese and a can of beer.

My plan is to find a nice place to camp, but first a stop at a pub for coffee and some sweets.

While I’m on a café break the rain starts again, my joy of camping in the wilderness diminishes.

Across the road there is a big sign showing Fox Glacier’s 10 best holiday parks, just a few hundred meters down.

I google and find out that it is a caravan park with reception, kitchen, dining room with TV, shower, laundry and drying room, I don’t hesitate.

Cooking and eating indoors and having the opportunity to dry your sleeping bag and wet clothes is worth a lot.

I found a secluded tent site under a giant oak tree, next to the main building.

I able to lock my bike under a roof building that is usually used as a kitchen, but not today. The building has no heat, and most campers use the indoor kitchen instead.

I bring my sleeping bag, pillow and anything else that is wet or damp. The dryer costs 1 NZD. While I’m cooking I hear a familiar language spoken in the background, Swedish.

Two young people from Gothenburg, also on touring bikes, have appeared. They are cycling in the opposite direction to Christchurch and we exchange information with each other. It’s always fun to meet other Swedes and speak Swedish, the last time I got to speak Swedish was in Bangkok.

After dinner, coffee and some TV back to the bike with a few things and to get a shower towel. A hot shower is always a treat.

Outside the rain is puring down och it’s chilly, a typical Swedish autumn.

Around 9 pm I crawling down in my tumble dried Marmot sleeping bag and accompanied by the rain falling on the tent canvas…

See Yeah Later

P-G
//The Global Cyclist