Leaving Dushanbe for Kelob

23 August
After three nights at the Green House Hostel in Dushanbe, without doing anything except resting my body and especially my legs, I was ready for the next challenge, getting to Khorough. Cycling from Dushanbe to Kelob and then to Khorough is quite a tough ride.

Before leaving Dushanbe, I made a bank transfer at the Sheraton hotel because it’s not like in Europe where ATMs are everywhere. Here, you need to have cash!

The first 25 kilometers towards Kelob were mostly easy cycling on a very good road. Then I had to work hard to climb all the hills.

After nearly 40 kilometers, I had reached the summit for the day and enjoyed a nice descent before I cycled through the 4.5-kilometer-long Khatlon tunnel, previously known as the Chormaghzak tunnel. It wasn’t a pleasant experience, I must say.
The tunnel had no lighting, and my bike’s lights were too weak! When I finally emerged from the tunnel, it had become dark, so it was time to look for a suitable camping spot.

A side road about 300 meters from the tunnel took me up to a plateau, where I found a place to set up my tent. I also had a good overview of the traffic below.

See Yeah Later

// The Global Cyclist 1719

By |2023-10-17T23:15:23+00:00augusti 25th, 2017|Central Asia, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments

23 august

I woke up to the screams of local youths and the sounds of their livestock, along with the thundering traffic below.

I rode downhill for a few kilometers before crossing a beautiful blue-green shimmering river called Vakhsh, which is also home to one of the world’s highest hydroelectric dams, the Nurek Dam. Hydroelectric power is one of Tajikistan’s export assets.

Crossing Vakhsh river at Nurek

Then, I faced a tough uphill climb of nearly 10 kilometers before reaching the next tunnel to pass through. The heat, which had now risen above thirty degrees, made cycling quite a challenge, and the water I had with me was lukewarm.

The tunnel was unlit, and cycling through it was no fun. When I emerged on the other side, I was greeted by a breathtaking view down to a lake that the road signs referred to as the Blue Sea. It’s actually the reservoir of the Nurek Dam.

Blue Sea, Nurek dam from above

A few hundred meters ahead, after a mountain cut, I saw a large gravel area with numerous tents set up, serving food and drinks. Many cars, trucks, and buses had already stopped here for a meal and a break so did I. Was hungry and also need some rest, especially from the heat and sun.I ordered soup with boiled meat.

While eating, I enjoyed the view of the large blue lake with several prominent mountain formations. Again, it’s the reservoir of the Nurek Dam. After this  lunch, I had a challenging climb left before completing the final 25 kilometers on relatively easy roads.

Unfortunately, I noticed that my front tire had a slow leak, but it wasn’t bad enough to prevent me from pumping it up and cycling a few kilometers at a time. I decided to wait until my evening camp to change the inner tube. I also needed to replace two broken spokes, which I planned to do when I reached Kulob.

At a roadside eatery, I stopped when I saw a few other cyclists and parked my bike beside their table. I changed the inner tube, pumped it up, and was about to go inside for some coffee or a glass of beer when I noticed that the couple had parked their bikes in a courtyard and had a room for the night.

The eatery had a large yellow-green grassy area in the courtyard where you could pitch a few tents, but they also had three or four rooms that you could essentially stay in for free if you dined there. There were shower facilities, but the water supply wasn’t up to our usual standards.

The German couple, a man my age and his wife about 15 years younger, were wearing light blue T-shirts that piqued my interest. I found out that the man had been battling blood cancer for twelve years, and the text on the back of their T-shirts read, ”Cycling for Cancer.” It was quite an achievement, as he had cycled in many countries, including Iceland six times. Apparently, exercise is good for both the mind and keeping diseases at bay.

The room had four bare white walls with two electrical outlets, no carpets, no tables, so I inflated the mattress and brought out my sleeping bag. Before settling in, I had to chase out all those pesky ants, but the flies were harder to deal with.
Despite the heat, I fell asleep fairly quickly.

Today’s distance: 68.5 km
Travel time: 4 hours and 16 minutes
Total time: 10 hours and 11 minutes
Max speed: 53.8 km/h
Average speed: 16.3 km/h
Max altitude: 1311 m.a.s.l
Min altitude: 615 m.a.s.l
Total ascent: 813 meters

By |2023-10-18T00:06:52+00:00augusti 24th, 2017|Central Asia, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments

Flight to Tashkent

7 August

Yippee Ki Yay, I been waiting for this day since august 2. Of Course I’ve seen a lot in Baku and it was worth to be rememered but my hotel or hostel visit dosen’t.
My flight to Uzbekistan depart 12.15 p.m first for a stopover in Almaty, Kazakhstan where I need to find somewhere to stay one night.

Wrapping my bicycle in plastic at Baku Airport

My connection flight to Tashkent  departs day after. The flight did well and also to find a cheap room.

Almaty Airport in evening light

Just outside the entrance to the airport a tall woman, perhaps 175 cm in height, handed me her business card and said they have a small hotel with good WiFi just a four-minute walk from here.

Initially hesitant, but the woman seemed trustworthy, and I accepted. I did’nt need to worry about my luggage and bike, this had already been taken care of at Baku Airport.

Four, maybe five minutes later, we reach the hotel, which looks more lika a single storey house and nestled in a residential area with lots of greenery.

Nice double room, with large TV, working WiFi, waterboiler and microwave own, clean, cheap and just a few minutes walking to Airport.  On Eurosport they send cycling. Shower and bathroom close at the corridor. Also search for E-VISA to Tajikistan. Easy and quick to get access to the country. Got some probs with the connection while I was typing. Tomorrow I will finished it. 

After changing clothes time to look for a dinner restaurant. 15 minutes walk I found a resturant and it seems to be popular, lots of guests inside.
On my way back to hotel withdraw some cash from a ATM

Tomorrow flight to Tasjkent and Uzbekistan

See yeah
//The Global Cyclist 1719

Split routes and heading for Galuga

July 23

After Badab Soorts Spring Water, we had a challenging bike ride on narrow gravel roads with a lot of uphill. Moreover, the heat was intense, but the surroundings were magificent and beautiful.

Small, narrow gravelroads from Badab Soort

We passed through some small villages before we had a long downhill ride where my maximum speed reached almost 76 km/h.

Then, shortly after Dibaj, we set up camp for the night at 2300 meters above sea level and slept under the open sky for the third consecutive night.

The next day, we decided to take different routes. I opted for an easier and more southern route, while Lars chose a tougher and more northern one.

View over green valley from Niala

Cycling from the valley up to Nyala was a significant challenge, nearly 10 km and the heat was awful.

But nothing lasts forever; everything has an end, including this climb. I see a large sign with the text ”Red Crescent Society of Iran,” the Red Cross. I knock on the door and ask for the use of their restroom, which they kindly grant.

I take off my shoes outside the entrance and place them on a shoe rack. Then, I’m invited into their lounge, and they offer me tea. They know a little English, and we manage to communicate a bit.

Despite the language barrier, they are really friendly and are dressed in sharp red uniforms.

Of course, we have to take ”selfies” before I continue my bike ride.

My self and Red Crescent employee

From here down to the Caspian Sea, Gorgan strait and Galugha was downwards, nearly 13 miles or 20 km. Beautiful and scenic road and throug a nationalpark, Tooska Cheshme Forest. I also notice that one or two spokes where broken. I calculate to find a bicycle workshop in Galuga.

See Yeah Later
//The Global Cyclist 1719

By |2023-10-19T07:38:10+00:00juli 24th, 2017|General, Iran|0 Comments

Galugha and invitetion to private home

July 23

First I did when I reached Galugha was looking for a bicycle workshop. A youngster helped me to finde one. While waiting I crossed the street  stepped into a patisserie for coffe and sweet cookies, and i did’nt need to pay 🫶👍💝. I wonder if this would be possible in Sweden?, not likely

I went back then for fetching my bicycle and they seems to made a good job. Then out of Galugah towards Gorhan.

On the main road leading to Kord Kuy, I get overtaken by a guy on a motorcycle with a young girl on the back. He points to the right and shouts…

 – Come along, follow me.

Father and his doughter Yeganeh and their house outside Galugah

We turn off the road onto a small path between two fields and stop at a small square stone house with an upstairs made of branches, planks, sticks, and a metal roof.

The stairs up are a homemade ladder.
A big carpet is on a wooden floor, and on one long side, there’s a homemade shelf where they store china and such.

The girl sits across from me, smiling so beautifully that it brings tears to your eyes.

Yeganeh offer me homemade bread

The man, who is her father and is in his mid-thirties, brings out a plate of bread, tomatoes, and cream cheese and asks me to eat.

If the house is of simple quality, their hearts and generosity are all the better and greater.

Before I leave, he gives me tomatoes from his own garden and a watermelon.

Once again, I have been shown that Iranians are something special, truly unique.💓💓

After this unexpected invitation and kindness from Yeganeh and her father, it was time to find a camping or tent spot. Which would turn out to be a little bit more problematic than I had anticipated.

Continuing towards Kord Kuy, but many small communities follow one another, and the darkness makes it difficult for me to find a good camping spot.

Around 9 PM, I tooke a chance and turned onto a narrow road leading to a university and find a spot between the road and a field with a large green area urrounded by trees and bushes, where I set up my tent in the shelter of some low trees.

After pitch up my tent and arranging my sleeping area, a guard from the university across the road approaches and indicates with his body language that I can’t camp there.

I tell a white lie, saying that I had to change my camping spot due to roaming dogs. At the same time, he looks at my leg and sees the bandage and my injured elbow.

He walks away, and then a chain of events unfolds like a carousel, which I hadn’t anticipated.

A few uniformed guards show up, leading to more discussion before I’m allowed to settle into my sleeping bag. I’ve just fallen asleep when I hear new voices, and I open the tent flap to find three paramedics in white attire with protective gloves, mentioning something about an emergency.

No, no, I’m okay.

I have medical treatment and antibiotics.

After more discussions, they leave, but soon, the police arrive, saying that I should come with them to the police station and sleep there.

They claim the area is dangerous, and I could be killed. I deny their request, and when they won’t even let me take down my tent, I’m about to fall apart. Of course, they check my passport and VISA.
A little later, another group, apparently from the city’s government office, shows up. In total, about ten people gather around me, all talking over each other, and some of them shining several times a bright flashlights right into my face.

Finally, I’m allowed to stay, and it’s 12:30 AM.

Phew, what an ordeal.

I fall asleep like a log and feel mentally and physically exhausted.

Distance: 101,23 km
Average speed: 16,4 km/h
Max Speed: 73,8 km/h
Lowest Altitude: – 11 m m.a.s.l
Highest Altitude: 2435 m.a.s.l

See Yeah 
// The Global Cyclist 1719



By |2023-10-19T16:08:29+00:00juni 25th, 2017|General, Iran|0 Comments

Long time since last blogg

When You reading this blogg  I’ve left Hungary for Romania and a new chapter in my cycling calender will be  started. I’ll never been i Romania with my bicycle Before,  so for me it’s exciting.

The first town I get into is Oradea and when I did that I realeased I been on my global journey now for one month and I still enjoy it.

Oradea Square, big, magnific and Clean. If You never visit Oradea make it tru. Because this town is an attration

My experience of Romania is that the people here are more friendly to those like me.

They are curious, questionable and helpful, but their language skills in English could be better.

Romania is also more hilly than Hungary, lots of slopes every day but it’s worth it.

My next stop for relaxing will be in the capitiol of Romania Bukarest were I also have planned a vistit at Swedish ambasey.I need a Swedish flag because I forgot to bring it with me Before I left Sweden.

Horses just before their work for today.This view is everyday for many in the Romanian l countryside. Everyone can not afford tractors

Romaina is beautiful, hilly and excating, Everything else is not true

Soon they may be three or more in the family. Too bad that our farm in Sweden does not provide space for these beautiful birds.

They were beeging for money and food and I feelt so sad about it, but they were glad and effervescent.

What can we do about it

Before Bukarest I took a trip to Bran a the castle were the myth of Dracula began. All stories about

Dracula is fairy tales but nevertheless exciting story.

Dracula myth began at this castel

Torture room , still going strong…? (pic)

Most of the stories about Dracula is fairy tales, but of course You must visit it.

I stayed in Bran and around the castle most of the day and I did not left Bran until 4.30 P.M

Curious, oblivious and very cute girl in Bran (pic)

Curious, oblivious and very cute girl in Bran. The father seem to be very proud over his doughter

The first two km out from Bran was easy but then a very steep and long climbing started

After 11 km uphill I stoped for water and just admire the view some was something very special

I love cows (pic)

Next stop in Bukarest at a hostel don´t worth the name. Bad service, loudly and dirty but cheep.

I found the Swedish embassy after 8 km Walking. Even though I arrived after closing time (open only  10-12) I get entered to embassy by a beautiful, dark-haired, nice Romanian woman who search up a Swedish flag among the belongings in the basement and handed it over to me.

Now I’m Swedish for real (pic)

Outside of my hostel window, there was a party and it’s bothered me all nights. That’s the price I have to pay if  I  choose a hostel like this

Two days in Bukaret is enough for me and then 150 km to the Bulgarien border. Quite easy ride, tailwind and fine weather.

Giurgiu is the Is a Romanian city on one side of the Danube which constitutes the border. and on oposite side is Ruse located

Some km frpm croosing Donau into Bulgaria ( pic)

Me, and the ladystaty at the entrance  to Giurgiu (pic)

Stalin build this bridge 1954 ( maybe not himself , but probably a number of underpaid workers) (pic)

Exactyl in the middle of the bridge between Romania and Bulgaria (pic)

Soon my sixth country whitin 6 weeks and Bulgaria will also be an experience for me.

See Yah from Bulgaria

maj 26th, 2017|Europe, Journey Blog|0 Comments

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By |2023-09-25T19:40:39+00:00maj 26th, 2017|Europe, General, Romania|0 Comments

High Mass day in Făgăraş and a snail picker

May 7


Outside Arpasu de Jos I had found a quiet place to pitch my tent

The First I met next morning was a local man with a bucket filled with snails, maybe for selling them to the fancy restaurant in Bukarest, who knows ?

Did not say much, probably because he could´t speak english

It doesn’t look tasty… but at the fancy restaurant maybe

The weather is cloudy but warm and I have good hopes that the gray blanket of the sky wants to crack and become a little more sunny

My first stop this Sunday was in Făgăraş, lots of traffic and people time off from work everywhere in town. After the mainroad a café become my break. Coffe and navigation planning  and cross the street a magnificent  church or cathedral Outside people dressed up steps into the church for high mass.

In Romania Orthodox cathedrals is common and and they are majestic where they are standing, inside as well

After my coffee break I did those people company, visit the hig mass.

Well attended High Mass in Făgăraş 

I have never seen and experienced Romania from a bicycle saddle before but it has been very positive.
Romania is up and down, valleys, mountains, nice rural areas and cozy small villages and so far I´m  very pleased what I´ve seen.The time has past 3 p.m and now heading Codlea where I´m planning to stop for food shopping, I’ve run out of coffee and bread.

Last 20 km after a small narrow road to Zărneşti and then an even narrower and much more crooked road towards Tohanu Nou… but very beautiful.

Zărnești filed and soon for camp and only 7 km to Bran

Big green fields, majestic mountains in background and the sun is shining. Few km from Tohanu Nou on a small hill with some grazed sheep, an elderly shepherd and his dog become my tentplace for tonight.

Tomorrow not more then 7 km to the castle Bran… and count Dracula

See Yeah
// P-G



By |2023-09-25T19:41:24+00:00maj 14th, 2017|Europe, Romania|0 Comments

Easy cycling and curious gypsies

May 5
I left hotel Deva early forenoon heading my next major goal, Bran Castle and count Draculas domicile. Maps.me has calulated around 275 km cycling and 600 altitude meters which mean that around 10 am, may 8 should I be there .

The first daycycling was quite easy, flat and long straight distances through agricultural areas and small cozy rural villages.

Gelmar, one of many small rural villages

In Sebes I stoped for coffe and some navigation search then further east. Just I left town it
began to drizzle and then more heavy rain and I was needed to change to rainwear.

When I passed a parking pocket by the road I stayed for more navigation check. I became immediately but kindly surrounded by a group of gypsies and their children.
They were curious about me but mostley at my bicycle and the GPS on the handlebar and I felt a single second of inattention and my GPS would be gone.

They also begged for money

When I stopped, I was immediately surrounded by curious children… and adults too!

In Romania, the Roma are very vulnerable, a majority live in poverty and the discrimination
against them is obvious… despite the fact that we have reached the end of the 2010s… deplorable!

An hour later I steered my bicycle off road and pitch up my tent in a field and protected by some bushes.
The rain has stopped, thanks for that

See Yeah later
// P-G

By |2023-09-25T19:43:26+00:00maj 13th, 2017|Europe, Romania|0 Comments

Bran Castle but Dracula wasn’t home

May 8

My mobile buzzer calls 07.00, and awoke with something of a shock. I have sleept like a log and drowsy I draw up the canvas zipper and the first thing I see is a dog face 10 inches from mine looking at me with curious eyes…

When I woke up and open the zipper…what a surprise… (:-))

What a surprise?
I wondered what he was thinking…

– Daddy…it does´t look like a normal sheep…ehhh… What to do?

He, yes it wa a male, was very kind and constantly wanting to be cuddled. After a while he left and I could start with breakfast.

An hour and a half later I arrive Tohanu Nou and a sign told me to turn right to the castle. The traffic on the narrov road was sparse, maybe due to the fact that it was normal working day and the tourist season not started yet

Two day and a forenoon cycling I´m in Bran, but first some coffe then a castle vistit

But closer I get into Bran village the crowds became larger, especially in front of the café and bar, not to mention the Souvenir Shops, like dime a dozen selling knick-knacks… ohhh…puh.

I parked and locked up my bicycle then visit the café for coffe, blogwriting and checking out all the tourists who are crowded outside.

A cute 3-4 years girl did me company

By |2023-09-25T19:44:15+00:00maj 10th, 2017|Europe, Romania|0 Comments

A leisurely day among old houses and Fortress visit

May 3 – 4 – 5
Toaday a day I´ve planned to do as little as possible, just load my internal batteries and my legs.

Breakfast was serving on the entrance floor. The tables were covered with white tablecloths and the breakfast options are ample, just to my liking.

I sat quite a long time enjoying the English version of the breakfast, scambled eggs, bacon, mushrooms, sausage. That´s what I call a brekfast for a touring cyclist, maybe not so wholesome.

Then up to my room preparing my vist at Deva fortress. Rucksack, mobilephone, camera bag and citymap with road description to touristinfo office from where the funicular up to fortress starts from.

Today, a day when I will do little as possible, load my internal batteries and my legs.

Breakfast is serving on the entrance floor. The tables were covered with white tablecloths and the breakfast options are ample, just to my liking.
I´m sitting quite a longtime enjoying the English version of the breakfast, scambled eggs, bacon, mushrooms, sausage. That´s what I call a brekfast for a touring cyclist, maybe not so wholesome.

Then up to my room preparing my vist at Deva fortress. Rucksack, mobilephone and camera bag. Citymap with roaddescription to touristinfo office from where the funicular up to fortress starts from.

Outside the weather was cloudy but warm, and the rain was hanging in the air. My walkabout through Devas old town district and parks after narrow streets and alleys.

Up there was my goal to day, Deva Fortrest. The street and resaturant I visit later in the evening

Fourtyfive minutes walking along small and narrow alleys I stod in front of tourist office, bought a ticket and picked with me some info material about the fortress.

Ceatea fortress and funicular from below The funicular car was made for 6-8 persons and it was steep, very steep up to the very top.


Fortress is crying out loud to be restored and thus regenerated.

Watch your self (New)  Deva fortress restoration

To watch something from above gives you another perspective about a city

Down below and in the neigbourhood hosts the Father of Heaven

Almost same way back and now the weather become more lighter, thiny small scratches in the heaven  shows light blue sky

Some statue of famous person from the region/county. Nadia Comăneci Romanian retired gymnast , five Olympic gold medals

Back to my room, shower and clothing thats fits my restaurant visit to night. Outside the dark has settle down and the air littlebit cooler.

Colored water action

Tomorrow a new day and on my bike again, heading castle Bran and Count Dracula’s domicile

See yeah later
// P-G

By |2023-09-25T19:44:55+00:00maj 10th, 2017|Europe, Romania|0 Comments

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