16 April

The night at Lake Hawea was cold and the temperature dropped below zero degrees, but my Marmot sleeping bag proved its worth.

I quickly packed up and enjoyed breakfast by the lakeshore – bread, granola and yoghurt – and skipped the coffee.

Google Maps pointed out a nearby viewpoint with a great view of the lake, which was my first stop of the morning.

The 12 km bike ride included some uphill sections, with the last kilometre being quite steep. The air was still chilly, but luckily there was no headwind.

Morning at Lake Hawea and sun is rising

One thing I’ve noticed when cycling in New Zealand is how well the tourism organisations highlight beautiful and interesting places along the roads. Signs with information about the place and how far it is.

New Zealand tourism organisations is very good at highlight intresting places after roads

 – Well done New Zealand – 

Panorama from lake Hawea viewpoint

A few tourist cars and smaller buses have already stopped to view the long, narrow Lake Hawea. The view over the lake and the light from the cracking cloud cover far into the lake gives goosebumps.

After the break, I get a little easier cycling for a few miles before I turn around towards the bay to the next divinely beautiful lake, Lake Wanaka.

The two lakes are very close to each other and only a small ”neck” strip of land called the isthmus separates them. According to the info sign that stands by a road pocket in the middle of a long hill, they have been one and the same lake, but the land uplift has separated them. There are only a few km between the lakes.

View fron the Neck over Lake Hawea

The rest of the morning and part of the afternoon will be spent following Lake Wanaka toward Makarora. With the sun warming the air, it’s finally comfortable enough to shed one of my extra warm sweaters.

This stretch is one of the most beautiful I have ever cycled so far, the views are so divinely beautiful that I am at a loss for words to describe them and the weather is almost perfect, and still no headwind

Also NZ Transport Agency urges traffic to be friendly and make it easier for those behind

View over end of Lake Wanaka and Makarora river.

Empty and abadoned house Makarora

In this part of New Zealand, there aren’t many villages or settlements—I can count on one hand the times I’ve seen or passed through them. Once I leave Lake Wanaka behind the road curves away from the last long reach of open water and the landscape changes dramatically and on my left hand river Makaroa flews calm.

At first the landscape still feels open. The valley is broad with green fields and wide gravel riverbeds where the river spreads out into several shallow channels. Some small settlements and barns. In the background the peaks of southern alps rise higher and higher, some of them with patches of snow. While pedaling I wonder what it would be like to live here, no grocery stores or other services, more than 60 km to the nearest town, but they have a primary school.

Signs along the road tell me that some local tour operators have found their place here, offering scenic flights, jet boat rides on the Makaroa River and hikes in the Alps. Google has noted that about 400 people live here.

After 1 pm I arrive in Makarora, turn right when I see the sign Makarora Country Café. It is more of a tourist center with a bar, cafe, souvenir shop and a few small cabins with very steep roofs for rent.

Lunch at Blue Pools cafe and bar, Makarora

Here you can hike, buy a jet boat ride or let the planet give you a lift up to the glacier.

I was hungry, parked my bike outside and went into the bar and café, bought a buffet plate for 12 NZD and sat outside in weather that could make anyone sigh with pleasure. Almost completely blue sky, warm and sunny.

The food, which consists of a little bit of everything, pasta, fish, chips, ham sauce, tastes delicious.

While I am sitting, I am visited by a small overweight dog of an unknown breed who tells me with big eyes that he is hungry.

He gets nothing from me other than the piece that fell under the table and which he quickly made sure to eat.

Before I leave this cozy place, I first visit the information center and find out that less than a mile towards Haast Pass there is an attraction a few kilometers from State Highway 6 where the Makarora River flows down from the mountain and is turquoise blue.

The man behind your counter told me…
– Look for the Blu Pool sign on the left, you can’t miss it
– Then a few kilometers of hiking on a boardwalk, quite easy

Finally, I also visit the men’s room and do some hygiene because this morning nothing came of it.

When I left Makarora heading Haast pass and Blue Pools the road was quite flat throug valleys and majestics hills around me. The sun is shining , clear blue sky and Makarora river on my left side.

Makarora valley towards Haast pass

After about 3–4 km, the valley transitions into a denser forest on both side. Every 100 meters the forest became denser and thicker.

Just over 13 km in, a sign for Blue Pools appeared, directing me to turn left in 400 meters. I arrived at a large parking lot crowded with cars and a few tour buses. I locked my bike to a pole and grabbed my camera, wallet, passport, and other valuables I didn’t want to lose.

A well-maintained 1.6 km path, with two footbridges spanning the Makarora and Blue Rivers, led me to the Blue Pools. The bordwalk and planks are built from treated wood and topped with large-mesh chicken wire, likely to prevent wear and help reduce the risk of slipping when wet.

Footrridge that crosses the Makarora River.

Like many rivers and streams here, the water was a stunning turquoise—and freezing cold!

At Blue pools two rivers/creeks meets, Makarora and Blue river

View over Makarora river from footbridge

I walked around the blue pools for half an hour  before I went back to parkingplace and my bicycle. Jumped on and continue upwards Haast pass. Dense, green forests ,mostly beech stretch out on both sides, giving the sensation of cycling through a rainforest. The sun was already starting to set as I frantically searched for a place to pitch my tent.

Narrow road over Haast pass, beech denst forest and NZ Transport Agency care about cyclist safety

Darkness fell quickly, and I realized I would have to set it up in the dark. After a long downhill stretch, I reached flatter ground and spotted a gravel clearing with some green patches near the Haast River.

By the time I started pitching my tent it was pitch black, so I worked by the light of my headlamp. After a late dinner, I lay down waiting for the coffee water to boil and felt myself drifting off.

Luckily, it was so cold outside that my little nap didn’t last very long—I managed to turn off the gas burner before it boiled dry!!

The coffee tasted great

See Yeah from Haast and Wilderness Backpackers
P-G
//The Global Cycling

12 April

During the night it has drizzled off and on, and it still does. When I open the tent and look out towards Mount Cook, it looks like it will clear up later in the morning. Despite that, I choose not to start cycling in rain gear. After some km pedaling the drizzle turns into more persistent, stops and change to rain gear.

Time for change, the drizzle has turn over to persistent rain

The road follow the lake all the way to Pukaki canal and I did a short stop at Punatahu (Pukaki) visitor center .

The tribute to Aoraki, Mount Cook is great among the indigenous people

The center has a caf’e and you can also buy fresch salmon from the lake, like other similars centers the prices are high. But the view over the lake and Mount Cook  (Aoraki) is for free and it’s breathtaking despite the cloydy weather. When it was time for me to continue the sky became brighter and a few rays of sunlight shone through, like I had guessed in the morning.

Until Twizel the road was flat but I had lots of headwind and the first ting I had in my mind was to search for a café or a bar.
Order coffee and a bowl with Pommes Frites.

They also have free WiFi so I open Hotels.com app and serach for a place to stay two nights, a place with laundry machine. Received a proposal for some hotels with exclusive prices but I choose a cheaper alternative, High Country Lodge and Backpackers and booked two nights.

High Country Lodge and Backpackers just two minutes cycling away. No probs to get a room and quite cheap. Most rooms are located in long barracks with shared bathrooms.

Most rooms are located in long barracks.

Each barracks has its own laundry room with washing machine.

Hostel was OK and the kitchen part was very clean and fresh and good WiFi

After inchecking, and locking up  my bike, I went into the shower room with a bathtub. I filled it with hot—very hot—water, jumped in, and opened a cold beer… Yippee-ki-yay, I felt like I was in heaven. I had also put in some clothes and  my sleeping bag into washing machine before….

9-12 April

To Twizel I’ve calculate with two overnights camping, 225 km is too much for just one tentcamping.  From Rangitata I turn right and heading for Gerladine, best of all I left the main road and follow a more winding and low traffic road.

Cycling from Rakaia to Twizel feels like riding straight into the heart of New Zealand’s magnificent landscapes. I leave the wide Canterbury Plains behind and pedal into an open, golden high country where the wind plays across the fields and the mountains slowly rise on the horizon.

 There is lots of cows in New Zealand, almost five million

Possums fur is warm and cozy and can be useful for anything.

Very cute and cuddly donky

I did some shorter stops and breaks and in Geraldine I visit a café at turistcenter and before I left village I did some supplies at the only supermarket the have.

Outside Gerladine I saw a rest place with a large tabel under a huge oak tree. A brass plaque screwed to the oak tree said it was planted in 1953 to commemorate the visit of Elizabeth II.

Pitched my tent near the oak and the table, and locked my bike to the table leg. After dinner I made a fire by with dry twigs of the oak so a really cozy evening.

Tent camp with fire outside Geraldine

The road follows valleys and light turquoise rivers, and the closer you get to Mackenzie Country, the more dramatic the scenery becomes — with snow-capped peaks in the distance and that endless sense of space that only New Zealand can offer.

The next day up and down, winding roads and beautiful surroundings. The valleys and mountains in the background are adorable and it is appreciated by all the cattle grazing in the large meadows.

I’ve seen signs for Farm Barn Cafe and  a pointing view three times . At the top of mount Michael on my right side I saw the sign again.  I really needed this rest, especially for my legs.
The cafe is simply more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs, expensive sweaters, gloves, merino wool hats, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.. The cafe is just more than a cafe. It sells souvenirs,  precious sweaters, glows, merino wool beanies, quilted jackets, skin creams, honey and everything else.

– Long coffee, black, no sugar and cream
– and a bacon pie
I got a numbered sign to put on my table and sat down outside

Took the numbered signs and sat me out under the porch. The sun peeks through the clouds and the mountains in the background keep me company for an hour and In the sun its quite warm.

View from Farm Barn Café

Then mostly downhill and scenic views through the valley and to Fairli. It is a small village, fishing, mountain and hiking tourism is offered. Buy dinner in the village’s only larger grocery store.

Then a long straight road with a headwind. I stopped at a farm that sold eggs, because I had forgotten to buy water. A Jack Russell comes towards me and barks, no one else is in sight.
After a few minutes a white SUV appears. A women vevar ner sidofönstret and I asked…

– Do you live here?
– Yes, I do svarar hon
– I need to refill my bottles with water, can you help me?
– Yes, of course

I follow her to the gable of the house where there is a rough entrance and laundry room. I fill up all the bottles and then head to Burke’s Pass. I’ve been told that some rain later so I speed up a little.

I find a suitable place just as I arrive at Burke’s pass on my right side. A path that leads into the forest and a suitable area right by a closed and locked gate will be my place tonight.

Sometimes reality surpasses the dream

Just had time to pitch the tent and bring in my luggage before the pouring rain comes down. Feels nice to sit under the tent canvas reasonably dry and prepare the evening’s food.

When I  finally roll into Tekapo after two days cycling  , surrounded by crisp alpine air and close to Aoraki / Mount Cook, it feels as though every pedal stroke has been part of an adventure through a living postcard. 🚴‍♂️The weather  has been little chilly and also some rain, a few hills to climb and winding roads.

When I arrived Tekapo it was almost noon and I noticed that the lakes color was turqoise , a breathtaking destination in the heart of New Zealand’s South Island.

I had read that the picturesque lake was famous for its stunning turquoise water, but this was more striking and amazing than I could have imagined in my imagination, and on top of that Tekapo is surrounded by a majestic mountain, Mount Cook or in the Maori language Aoraki, dressed in white!

Lake Tekapo famous for its turquoise water color

The water in Lake Tekapo and surrounding lakes, rivers and streams is turquoise in color due to what is called glacial flour.

It is extremely finely ground rock powder that is formed when glaciers grind down bedrock from the mountains, especially from the area around Aoraki / Mount Cook. When the meltwater flows into the lake, it takes these microscopic particles with it.

The particles are so small that they remain suspended in the water, scattering sunlight in a unique way.

If it had been a sunny day, the lake’s turquoise color would have been even more pronounced, despite the cloudy weather it was almost a surreal turquoise color.

The small village of Lake Tekapo, with a population of just little more than 500, is home to the iconic Church of the Good Shepherd.

Church_of_the_Good_Shepherd
This church is among the most photographed spots in New Zealand, thanks to its stunning setting on Lake Tekapo with the Southern Alps providing a breathtaking backdrop.

Tekapo It’s a very popular place, especially for backpackers, but also quite expensive.

I stopped for a few hours, had some light lunch at an eatery and bar with the name Mackenzies Cafe Bar & Grill. Ordered a good pie and coffee
and, to my great surprise, refill included for free, first time ever during this bicycle tour.

Before heading south and lake Pukaki I took a ”walk about” nearby, walked over the footbridge to Church of Good Shepheard, visit Herding Dog monument and marveled at the beauty of Tekapo.

Herding dog has always been sheep farmers best friend

11 April Afternoon
After some hours in a busy Tekapo I was on the bike again. My plan now was to cycle to Lake Pukaki, 40 km south.

Illama grazing

The road down to Lake Pukaki was breathtakingly beautiful, but dark clouds were gathering, so I had to pedal a bit harder. It’s no fun pitching a tent in the rain.

The rain is on its way

Valley before Lake Pukaki

I arrived at Lake Pukaki. A large parking lot and viewpoint became my final destination for the evening. Next to the viewpoint was a walking path with some  trees and bushes that could hide my tent from view. A sign said that camping was not allowed, but I took a chance.

Tent camping Pukaki lake

Tomorrow will be a short day on the bike — I’m planning to stay two nights in Twizel. I need to wash clothes and freshen myself up.

See Yeah from Twizel

P-G
//The Global Cyclist