16 – 18 December

Villa o Higgins – Cochrane

I wake up half an hour before my Motorola moto (g30( myself has woken up. Going out to the communal kitchen and preparing breakfast. Muesli, yogurt, eggs, bread with cheese and ham comb then coffee.

The weather outside is sunny just as the campsite owner had promised. In addition to this, he had also promised a gravel road for 230 km!

First 30-35 km road quite OK and beautifu, with breathtaking views of lakes, Lago Cisnes, Vargas and no problem to get water.

Lago Cines

Streams, rivers and waterfalls overflow. The problem is the road, or the forest road. Bumps, holes. Loose stones are what I have to fight against.

In addition, a grader has started scraping the road, leaving piles of gravel in the middle of the road, to the left or to the right. No kidding. Cannot maintain a higher average speed than 11-12 km per hour.

The sun is shining from an almost clear blue sky and the mountains around me tower up gigantic with their white peaks

After 45 km there will be a stop for late lunch, soup, bread and coffee and to the sound of a mighty waterfall, Puente de Luna.

Lunch Break at Puente de Luna

Continues stubbornly pedaling and fighting against the cruel gravel road. There will be many short stops. In addition to this, a number of difficult hills that I have to steer the bike up. On one of the downhills, Tom and Sarah from the UK have caught up with me and we talk a bit and at the same time fill up the water bottles. Shortly thereafter, Tom and Sarah stop at a roofed shelter that appears to be newly built.

Sarah and Tom at their overnight place

They intend to spend the night here. It’s just after half past six and my GPS shows that I’ve cycled 62 km.

Sarah and Tom are very special people. Mischievous, generous and especially Tom seems to care about others… I really like them

I continue downhill through the valley and up the next tough hill.

Scenic view


Can’t be better

When I reach the top, I find a patch of grass by the road and the tent is set up. The clock has struck 7 and the GPS has switched to 70 km.

After a late dinner, noodles, hamburgers, bread, beer and a cup of coffee, I fall asleep like a clubbed ox.

Tomorrow 17 I have some easier cycling towards the ferry landing that will take me across Rio Bravo to Puerto Yungay.

Distans: 71,79 km
Average Speed: 09,60 km/h
Max Speed: 38,4 km/h
Cycling Time:07,26 h/m
Total Time:11:41 h/m
Medium Temp: 15,0 C
Max Temp: 25,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C
Total Climbing: 1012 m

December 17

Wake up at 06:15 and it has been minus degrees during the night. My bike cover is covered in ice. First I eat breakfast and then I pack the tent. A few minutes past 8 am I sit on my Brook saddle and roll gently downhill for 3 km. A few small hills, a number of bridges and rivers to cross.

Can’t be better

The road is actually a bit better and above all quite flat.

A few minutes before 11 I see the ferry by the river, also hear some sound signals and the staff waves for me to hurry up. Bikes on board and parks the bike at the back.

The journey over or along the Rio Bravo takes 45 minutes. According to Maps.me there is supposed to be a café at the quay but it is closed.

Ferry arrives Puerto Yungy

Just keep going…. Uphill, uphill and more uphill. Among the hardest things I’ve ever done. The climb is sometimes between 11-14%.

But all slopes have an end and at the top there is a break for crates and Coca-Cola, while I have coffee and take a breather, Tom and Sarah come on their bikes. New talk and they move on. They are going to Tortel and I to Cochran.

If it was diabolically hard uphill, it was all the more beautiful downhill and the views can not be described well enough, must be experienced.

Gravel road when it’s worst

and best

At the bottom a T-junction and the Cochran sign indicates that I should turn right. The sun shines incessantly but the road is just as bad. Another sign shows that I have 101 km to Cochrane, feels hard! I continue for a few more miles before I find, as it seems, an abandoned or closed roadside restaurant with a guest room. It’s almost 8:00 p.m. The grassy areas inside affect my decision, open the gate and pitch the tent. Prepare the same dinner as last night, noodles, burgers and coffee. No beer and then I pass out again like a beaten ox.
Beck’s daughter only has time to read the audiobook I started for a few minutes before my eyes and ears go out.

Tomorrow just under 78 km to much needed rest. The bike needs to be overhauled, problems with loose rear wheel bearings and broken but so far, the handbrake at the front worked.

Distans:81,45 km
Average Speed: 11,20 km/h
Max Speed: 45,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medium Temp: 18,0 C
Max Temp: 32,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C
Total Climbing: 783 m


18 December

A long day’s hard work towards camping in Cochrane and the summer weather continues, as well as the enormously beautiful surroundings. Absolutely magically beautiful.

”Lill Kentha” my friend and travel companion likes the viewI thought I would get some easier cycling today but that didn’t happen if I don’t ignore the first 32 km. I follow Rio Baker for a while and meet a cyclist from the other direction. He mentions that in three hundred meters I will have to show my true colours.
6 km, over three hundred meters of elevation gain I will overcome.

Switch back almost all the way up to the very peak

Lupines grows allso here

Not as steep as I had first thought, but I can cycle longer distances in the lightest gear. Large parts of the road were serpentine roads.

"Lill Kentha" my friend and travell companion likes the view

”Lill Kentha” like the view

At the very peak a 45 minutes stop for soap,bread, chees and coffe and ”Lill Kentha” asked to join the view

Then downhill and really bad road, many small steep hills and in one of them there was a crash into the ditch when I tried to keep out of the way of a car from behind. When it’s uphill and bumpy the road is too low to keep a completely straight course and it ended up with ditching and now the brake lever for the front brake didn’t hold anymore. My elbow got a scratch, as did my right knee otherwise OK.

Just before, about 4 km before Cochrane, I thought I saw visions…. Asphalt road, shouted out loud ”Yippee Ki-Yay”


Paved road... Wow for four km...yippee ki yay

Paved road for 4 km… What… Yippee Ki-Yay

Half past seven after almost 78 km of gravel road on scandalously bad surface, I find with the help of a bicycle policeman a campsite in the middle of ”town”.Cochrane is a small but nice town

Cozy place with lawns, rose bushes and shy trees. Theree is a kitchen, as well as a toilet and shower. But the heat of the water was more suitable for polar bears. But a shower is always a shower.

Camp plce middle in town

Decide that here it will be a few nights and tomorrow the bike repairman will be found. Likewise, I have to withdraw cash, which has been virtually impossible since El Calafate.

Distans: 77,25 km
Average Speed: 11,4 km/h
Max Speed: 47,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:08:21 h/m
Medium Temp: 23,0 C
Max Temp: 36,0 C
Min Temp: 03,0 C
Total Climbing: 1118 m

See you laterP-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726