Pamir Lodge, sick, nausea and negative info from Chinese consulate

Khorog 9/1

Arrival and Struggling with Illness

Upon arriving at Pamir Lodge in Khorugh, I felt noticeably weak and nauseous. Recognizing my exhaustion, I decided to go to bed early, hoping that rest would help my condition. However, my sleep was far from restful; I drifted in and out of sleep throughout the night, unable to settle into a deep, restorative rest.

A Day of Rest and Recovery

The following morning, I tried to regain some strength with a hearty breakfast of sausages, eggs, bread, marmalade, and tea. Despite the meal, I remained fatigued and spent most of the day resting. I listened to an audiobook to pass the time and only got up briefly to have some yogurt before returning to bed, still seeking relief from my lingering malaise.

Restless Night and Interrupted Sleep

By the time the clock read 5:15 PM, I felt so exhausted that I crawled under the covers, put on my wireless headphones, and listened to my audiobook. After about an hour, I finally managed to fall asleep for real.

During the night, I woke up and had to get up to use the bathroom. I also had to get up again early in the morning for the same reason. Each time, my steps felt heavy and slow as I returned and crawled back into bed, still feeling drained.

Morning Routine and New Challenges

At 7:00 AM, I got up for breakfast, sharing the meal with a particularly hungry cat and six or seven wasps that seemed to be drawn by the marmalade. Although I initially felt a bit more alert, the sense of nausea and dizziness gradually returned after breakfast, and my mouth felt uncomfortably dry, almost as if I had spent the night in a desert.

A little later in the morning, I made my way down to the main road and boarded minibus number 3, which took me into the Khorugh bazaar. My goal was to find a box so that I could pack up everything unnecessary that I had brought with me. After comparing my gear with that of other cyclists, I noticed that they typically carry about ten kilograms less. I planned to send these extra items by car, primarily to Murghab, to lighten my load for the journey ahead.

Visa Complications and Uncertain Plans

This morning brought another challenge when I received an email from the Chinese consulate. According to their message, I must apply for a Chinese visa in Sweden, as they do not accept applications submitted by proxy. This requirement means I will need to fly home to Sweden to submit my visa application in person, and even then, there is no guarantee that my application will be approved.

I have heard from other travelers about their experiences trying to obtain a Chinese visa. Some have opted to fly to Hong Kong and submit their visa applications at the airport there. The outcomes, however, have been inconsistent—while some have successfully obtained visas, others have faced rejection. The website caravanistan.com also notes that Chinese visa regulations change frequently, sometimes from month to month or even week to week, making the process highly unpredictable.

Given these uncertainties, I have devised a backup plan. If the Chinese visa proves unattainable, I intend to apply for a visa to Nepal and travel south instead. However, if I am also denied entry to Nepal, I fear that my motivation to continue the journey may falter, especially considering my current health issues.

The route ahead remains daunting. The distance to Osh in Kyrgyzstan is just over 720 kilometers, traversing mountainous terrain and climbing to elevations over 4,600 meters above sea level. These logistical and physical challenges add to the complexity of my journey as I try to determine the best path forward.

See yea later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-09T09:20:17+00:00September 2nd, 2017|Central Asia, General, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments
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Almost at my second stage, Khorog

29-30/8
I’m close to completing two of my four waypoints with Khorog, just 130 km—or about two days of cycling—away.

I left Shipad in much better condition than last day but my appetite is still low.

Leaving Shipad and huge ,majestic mountains surrounding me

Just before half past ten I find a roadside restaurant and I feelt that now my appetite is slowly but surely coming back and I decide that it will be some breakfast. Tea, egg mixture and vegetables and a Pepsi Cola from the store next door will be my choice.

My first real breakfast for two days. Nice place with nice name “TE House leaking water “


I eat my breakfast with a good appetite and enjoy the surroundings of the roadside tavern. About forty-five minutes later I am ready to continue my pedaling. Before I set off, I fill my empty water bottles from the stream that flows down the mountain, past the pub and on towards the Panj River.

The water is ice cold and tastes awesome. I also rinse my head because even though I‘m up in the mountains, the heat is palpable.

I come after tiring pedaling to the Rushan valley and the mountains that surround me are gigantic, 4, 5, 6 thousand meters of mountains around me and you really feel small.

Bland de små, billiga husen utmärker sig en fräsch och väl underhållen byggnad. Det här är hotellet, Café Naim i Rushan.

At five o’clock, I reach the small village of Pastkhuf and find a spot below a harvested field right beside the river. Two cyclists, a man and a woman, are already there, getting ready to set up their tent. They’re from Germany and have pedaled all the way from Dushanbe on their way to Osh.

After setting up my tent, I headed down to the river for a dip in the icy water, then went back up to grab my grocery bag and camping kitchen. I settled by the beach on the sloping ledge, boiled some macaroni, and poured it into a bag I’d bought in a small village, which I thought was some kind of meat soup. It looked good, but the taste was different—sharp and sizzling in my mouth.

Pastkhuf and Panj river

Contains probably some additive to meat stews for a whole family and not to macaroni for one person. Bury the cooking. My stomach flu has given up but on the other hand I have got problems with my bronchial tubes.

My bronchial tubes are beeping and it feels strained to breathe. I suspect that it is all the dust along the road that caused this. After the failed macaroni dinner, I crawl into the tent and quickly fall asleep to the audiobook Tomorrow it‘s just under 50 km left to Khorough.

Total distance 84,9 km Travel time 06.29 h.m Total time 10.13 h.m
Max speed 41,4 km/h Medium speed  13,2 km/h
Max temp – Average temp – Min temp –
Max elevation  2013 m.a.s.l Min elevation 1601  m.a.s.l Total elevation 1768 m

See yea later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-05T10:23:59+00:00August 30th, 2017|General|0 Comments
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Kulob pass and campside Panj river

I woke up early to the traffic and decided that it will be a quick breakfast. The sun is already ready to heat up another day and it´s gonna be tough cycling.
My GPS has told me it´s 10 km to the top at + 2000 meters a.s.l. The surroundings are dry, sand, stone and plants that thrive in this environment. Not much in the way of green spaces.

I stopped when I saw a small house, parked bicycle beside the road and walked up few hundred meters.  A dog is barking and a young guy riding a donkey i full speed to catch another donkey that has sneaked away.

Everything around and close to the house is sand and dirt, only few green spots and some threes and busches.
From the house I heard a baby scream, looked into the open door and saw a child sitting in the far corner drinking from a mug. I shout out and a women  with her son came out and I asked for water and pointed to my bottles.

Two minutes later she came back with the bottles filled with cold water. It doesn‘t have much welfare to show, the poverty is great but the hospitality is greater, it‘s something that stuck in my consciousness during this bike ride.

I continue my cycling upwards and it gets steeper and steeper. Need to jump of sometimes when it´s to steep and the road become worse the higher up I got, finally I´m at the top. A huge portal painted in red, green and white, colors of Tajikistan with some text I don´t understand in front of  me. I take time for a much–needed rest and I sit down on a large rock. I pick up some cookies and the water bottle  and admire the view down to the valley. 10 km upwards and + 2000 m.a.s.l

After almost half an hour rest it was time to continue, my GPS shows that on the other side of the mountain pass there is a small  community in the vally, Shurobod.  It´s suite me perfect to stop there for lunch.

The road downwards was awful, bumpy and lots of lose gravel and stones and I need to focus where I have the front wheel. I don´t want to crash here. Half past 1 pm I entered into Shurobod and at the end of the village it was a restaurant so I stopped. It was almost full. I order meat soap with lots of meat, bread and a bottle of beer, russian beer. Taste very good and it was cheap also.

From start in the morning to here I have only covered 17 km with average 7 km/h. From Shurobod the road was so newly paved that even the lane markings hadn’t been painted yet and flat or slope.

Just before Khirmanjo a new switchback, but this time downwards and Panji river for the first time. Did a short break at a roadside restaurant . In Kisht some youth stopped me just because they were curious, asked me questions in the only English they learned in school.

One of the youths follow me all the way up through the village until I gave him something… A bicycle pump become my gift and he seems to be satisfied.

Kisth guy with my bicycle pump I gave him

Tentcamp outside Kisth by the river Panji, and Afghanistan on the other side

Total distance 57,0 km/h Travel time 04.42 h.m Total time 11.11 h.m
Max speed 64,2 km/h Medium speed 12,2 km/h
Max temp – Average temp – Min temp –
Max elevation 2000 m.a.s.l Min elevation 864 m.a.s.l Total ascent 1016 m

See yah later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

By |2026-02-04T21:35:18+00:00August 28th, 2017|Central Asia, General, Pamir, Tajikistan|0 Comments
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Flight to Tashkent

7 August

Yippee Ki Yay, I been waiting for this day since august 2. Of Course I’ve seen a lot in Baku and it was worth to be rememered but my hotel or hostel visit dosen’t.
My flight to Uzbekistan depart 12.15 p.m first for a stopover in Almaty, Kazakhstan where I need to find somewhere to stay one night.

Wrapping my bicycle in plastic at Baku Airport

My connection flight to Tashkent  departs day after. The flight did well and also to find a cheap room.

Almaty Airport in evening light

Just outside the entrance to the airport a tall woman, perhaps 175 cm in height, handed me her business card and said they have a small hotel with good WiFi just a four-minute walk from here.

Initially hesitant, but the woman seemed trustworthy, and I accepted. I did’nt need to worry about my luggage and bike, this had already been taken care of at Baku Airport.

Four, maybe five minutes later, we reach the hotel, which looks more lika a single storey house and nestled in a residential area with lots of greenery.

Nice double room, with large TV, working WiFi, waterboiler and microwave own, clean, cheap and just a few minutes walking to Airport.  On Eurosport they send cycling. Shower and bathroom close at the corridor. Also search for E-VISA to Tajikistan. Easy and quick to get access to the country. Got some probs with the connection while I was typing. Tomorrow I will finished it. 

After changing clothes time to look for a dinner restaurant. 15 minutes walk I found a resturant and it seems to be popular, lots of guests inside.
On my way back to hotel withdraw some cash from a ATM

Tomorrow flight to Tasjkent and Uzbekistan

See yeah
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1719

By |2023-10-19T07:26:12+00:00August 7th, 2017|Azerbaijan, Central Asia, General, Kazakhstan|0 Comments
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Split routes and heading for Galuga

July 23

After Badab Soorts Spring Water, we had a challenging bike ride on narrow gravel roads with a lot of uphill. Moreover, the heat was intense, but the surroundings were magificent and beautiful.

Small, narrow gravelroads from Badab Soort

We passed through some small villages before we had a long downhill ride where my maximum speed reached almost 76 km/h.

Then, shortly after Dibaj, we set up camp for the night at 2300 meters above sea level and slept under the open sky for the third consecutive night.

The next day, we decided to take different routes. I opted for an easier and more southern route, while Lars chose a tougher and more northern one.

View over green valley from Niala

Cycling from the valley up to Nyala was a significant challenge, nearly 10 km and the heat was awful.

But nothing lasts forever; everything has an end, including this climb. I see a large sign with the text “Red Crescent Society of Iran,” the Red Cross. I knock on the door and ask for the use of their restroom, which they kindly grant.

I take off my shoes outside the entrance and place them on a shoe rack. Then, I’m invited into their lounge, and they offer me tea. They know a little English, and we manage to communicate a bit.

Despite the language barrier, they are really friendly and are dressed in sharp red uniforms.

Of course, we have to take “selfies” before I continue my bike ride.

My self and Red Crescent employee

From here down to the Caspian Sea, Gorgan strait and Galugha was downwards, nearly 13 miles or 20 km. Beautiful and scenic road and throug a nationalpark, Tooska Cheshme Forest. I also notice that one or two spokes where broken. I calculate to find a bicycle workshop in Galuga.

See Yeah Later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1719

By |2023-10-19T07:38:10+00:00July 24th, 2017|General, Iran|0 Comments
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Galugha and invitetion to private home

July 23

First I did when I reached Galugha was looking for a bicycle workshop. A youngster helped me to finde one. While waiting I crossed the street  stepped into a patisserie for coffe and sweet cookies, and i did’nt need to pay 🫶👍💝. I wonder if this would be possible in Sweden?, not likely

I went back then for fetching my bicycle and they seems to made a good job. Then out of Galugah towards Gorhan.

On the main road leading to Kord Kuy, I get overtaken by a guy on a motorcycle with a young girl on the back. He points to the right and shouts…

 – Come along, follow me.

Father and his doughter Yeganeh and their house outside Galugah

We turn off the road onto a small path between two fields and stop at a small square stone house with an upstairs made of branches, planks, sticks, and a metal roof.

The stairs up are a homemade ladder.
A big carpet is on a wooden floor, and on one long side, there’s a homemade shelf where they store china and such.

The girl sits across from me, smiling so beautifully that it brings tears to your eyes.

Yeganeh offer me homemade bread

The man, who is her father and is in his mid-thirties, brings out a plate of bread, tomatoes, and cream cheese and asks me to eat.

If the house is of simple quality, their hearts and generosity are all the better and greater.

Before I leave, he gives me tomatoes from his own garden and a watermelon.

Once again, I have been shown that Iranians are something special, truly unique.💓💓

After this unexpected invitation and kindness from Yeganeh and her father, it was time to find a camping or tent spot. Which would turn out to be a little bit more problematic than I had anticipated.

Continuing towards Kord Kuy, but many small communities follow one another, and the darkness makes it difficult for me to find a good camping spot.

Around 9 PM, I tooke a chance and turned onto a narrow road leading to a university and find a spot between the road and a field with a large green area urrounded by trees and bushes, where I set up my tent in the shelter of some low trees.

After pitch up my tent and arranging my sleeping area, a guard from the university across the road approaches and indicates with his body language that I can’t camp there.

I tell a white lie, saying that I had to change my camping spot due to roaming dogs. At the same time, he looks at my leg and sees the bandage and my injured elbow.

He walks away, and then a chain of events unfolds like a carousel, which I hadn’t anticipated.

A few uniformed guards show up, leading to more discussion before I’m allowed to settle into my sleeping bag. I’ve just fallen asleep when I hear new voices, and I open the tent flap to find three paramedics in white attire with protective gloves, mentioning something about an emergency.

– No, no, I’m okay.

– I have medical treatment and antibiotics.

After more discussions, they leave, but soon, the police arrive, saying that I should come with them to the police station and sleep there.

They claim the area is dangerous, and I could be killed. I deny their request, and when they won’t even let me take down my tent, I’m about to fall apart. Of course, they check my passport and VISA.
A little later, another group, apparently from the city’s government office, shows up. In total, about ten people gather around me, all talking over each other, and some of them shining several times a bright flashlights right into my face.

Finally, I’m allowed to stay, and it’s 12:30 AM.

Phew, what an ordeal.

I fall asleep like a log and feel mentally and physically exhausted.

Distance: 101,23 km
Average speed: 16,4 km/h
Max Speed: 73,8 km/h
Lowest Altitude: – 11 m m.a.s.l
Highest Altitude: 2435 m.a.s.l

See Yeah 
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1719

 

 

By |2023-10-19T16:08:29+00:00June 25th, 2017|General, Iran|0 Comments
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Long time since last blogg

When You reading this blogg  I’ve left Hungary for Romania and a new chapter in my cycling calender will be  started. I’ll never been i Romania with my bicycle Before,  so for me it’s exciting.

The first town I get into is Oradea and when I did that I realeased I been on my global journey now for one month and I still enjoy it.

Oradea Square, big, magnific and Clean. If You never visit Oradea make it tru. Because this town is an attration

My experience of Romania is that the people here are more friendly to those like me.

They are curious, questionable and helpful, but their language skills in English could be better.

Romania is also more hilly than Hungary, lots of slopes every day but it’s worth it.

My next stop for relaxing will be in the capitiol of Romania Bukarest were I also have planned a vistit at Swedish ambasey.I need a Swedish flag because I forgot to bring it with me Before I left Sweden.

Horses just before their work for today.This view is everyday for many in the Romanian l countryside. Everyone can not afford tractors

Romaina is beautiful, hilly and excating, Everything else is not true

Soon they may be three or more in the family. Too bad that our farm in Sweden does not provide space for these beautiful birds.

They were beeging for money and food and I feelt so sad about it, but they were glad and effervescent.

What can we do about it

Before Bukarest I took a trip to Bran a the castle were the myth of Dracula began. All stories about

Dracula is fairy tales but nevertheless exciting story.

Dracula myth began at this castel

Torture room , still going strong…? (pic)

Most of the stories about Dracula is fairy tales, but of course You must visit it.

I stayed in Bran and around the castle most of the day and I did not left Bran until 4.30 P.M

Curious, oblivious and very cute girl in Bran (pic)

Curious, oblivious and very cute girl in Bran. The father seem to be very proud over his doughter

The first two km out from Bran was easy but then a very steep and long climbing started

After 11 km uphill I stoped for water and just admire the view some was something very special

I love cows (pic)

Next stop in Bukarest at a hostel don´t worth the name. Bad service, loudly and dirty but cheep.

I found the Swedish embassy after 8 km Walking. Even though I arrived after closing time (open only  10-12) I get entered to embassy by a beautiful, dark-haired, nice Romanian woman who search up a Swedish flag among the belongings in the basement and handed it over to me.

Now I’m Swedish for real (pic)

Outside of my hostel window, there was a party and it’s bothered me all nights. That’s the price I have to pay if  I  choose a hostel like this

Two days in Bukaret is enough for me and then 150 km to the Bulgarien border. Quite easy ride, tailwind and fine weather.

Giurgiu is the Is a Romanian city on one side of the Danube which constitutes the border. and on oposite side is Ruse located

Some km frpm croosing Donau into Bulgaria ( pic)

Me, and the ladystaty at the entrance  to Giurgiu (pic)

Stalin build this bridge 1954 ( maybe not himself , but probably a number of underpaid workers) (pic)

Exactyl in the middle of the bridge between Romania and Bulgaria (pic)

Soon my sixth country whitin 6 weeks and Bulgaria will also be an experience for me.

See Yah from Bulgaria

maj 26th, 2017|Europe, Journey Blog|0 Comments

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By |2023-09-25T19:40:39+00:00May 26th, 2017|Europe, General, Romania|0 Comments
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My meeting with a father to world famous womens and the summer has come

July 28 – May1

Visiting The Avas hill.

I started my second morning in Hungary  with an English Breakfast and coffe at the hotel, then I checked out and cycled to the bicycle workshop to leave my bicycle for service as planned since yesterday.

With a small rucksack I started to walk up to Avas hill. Upwards all the way and passing some residential areas but the landmark was hard to miss, the television tower was visible from everywhere.

The Avas televisopn tower visiable from everywhere

The sad thing was that the weather became more cloudy with risk for rain. Well up there I observe a luxurious views of Miskolc and it´s surroundings.

Luxurious views of Miskolc

I chose another way back down to town, steeper, more na rrow and switchback-path similar. Much nicer, lots of flowers, trees and small houses.

Back in city I picked up my bike which was ready for more adventures and hardships.

Two hours after I visit Avas view point Chris and his girlfriend appeared at our meeting place at Tesco Express.

He described the best way to his address and 45 minutes later I stod infront of his residential buildings. He helped me to carry up my bicycle to his apartment

– It´s to risky to park your bike at the yard, even if you lock it up

We had a nice smal talk and a beer  before nightsleep.

Chris couchsurfing host

It’s not a five star hotel but the experience of sleeping with a totally strange Hungarian is great for me and Chris was really a nice person to learn.

Next day, I less than 100 km to Balmazujavaros which is my goal to day.

106 km easy cycling today

coffe break next to the railway track

This guy from Germany had some odd packing

Balmazujavaros is a small village and I stoped only for  provision at rural shop.

While I prepare and pack my purchased groceries in my panniers, a boozer hanging around my bike and  talking incoherently. Tried to ignore him and cycled away.

When I pitched up my tent outside Balmazujavaros I noticed my cell phone was missing.

quite easy to pitch up a Hilleberg tent

Time has past  6 p.m and the rural shop closed so I had to wait until next morning bike back and ask if anyone found it, but I was sure the boozer stole my cell phone while I was packing food into my panniers.

I will kill the soon of a bitch.

A mobile phone is just more than a phone, it´s a life line to sister and friends, pictures, documents, addresses, codes, and you name it.

Day after I cycle back for searching my phone if someone ….! It was now I met an older well-dressed . He told me during our cycling that he spokes ten languages and was a proud father of two world-famous daughters, both Celione Dione and Maria Carey… !!!! Wow what a father

In Balmazujavaros this man told eme he was father to Celine Dion and Maria Carey…!

No Phone, it´s gone for ever  so I turned back for heading romania at Ártánd Border Crossing  75 km south.

For me as a Swede it´s always with joy to see a storkfamily. In Sweden they are very, very rare, only in the very south, Skåne if you are lucky get to see some couple.

a pair of storks in their nest who may be waiting the birth of their newborn

Waiting patiently to perform a day’s work

A day later just before 14:00, passing the border croosing and passcontrol in Ártánd and then I cycled into a Oradea, Romania.

Ártánd Border Crossing Station a gate into Romania

and I stopped at a big, clean and beautiful square close to Crişul Repede river

Oradea magnificet square where I stopped for coffe

I asked my self while sitting with my coffe… Why is the traffic so scanty, it´s monday?

Then I remember, today is it May 1, International Workers’ Day, also known as Labour Day and an official holiday even i Romania.

I continue drinking my coffee and eating one of my pizza slices which I had in handlebar bag and at the same time browsing on my Huawei MediaPad.

45 minutes coffe drinking and peeking on strolled DEVA citizens anf then I cycled around and across the river until my hunger told me to stop.

After a small alley outdoor cafes are lined up and after a certain inner persuasion, I sat down inside one of the restaurants and order a pizza.

Sat for two hours with my computer connected to their WiFi and at the same time as I myself felt relaxed.

A kind of inner harmony and calm had spread to my mental state despite the hassle and the loss of my cell phone, but fortunately you learn a lot from events like this.

Then I cycled ovet river Crişul Repede again and further south direction of Băile Felix which is a few km outside the city but the goal I have set is Drăgești.

The traffic has increased significantly, but it is quite easy to find your way out of Oradeao. Signs keep saying I’m on the right track.

It is noticeable that I have left Hungary’s flat and treeless pannonian steppes, now it’s more like Wales. Hills and small mountains everywhere and very green.

Passing many small and cozy villages and noticed the Romania’s Orthodox Catholic is very visible in the design of all churches, specialy the roofs and they are beutiful.

Romania is Wales look alike, grreen and many hills

On the very peak of a small hill and with a magnificent view over the valley below and nearby community I steered my bike a bit from the road and pitch up my tent.

Time has past 20:00, the air is lukewarm and only few clouds on the sky, so I calculated with a chilly night.

Eating a late dinner and have time to listen to three chapters about Evert Bäckström’s achievements

See Yeah from Deva
// P-G

 

By |2023-09-25T19:46:56+00:00May 6th, 2017|Europe, General, Romania|0 Comments
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Miskolc and couchsurfing inquiry

Has slept as well as possible despite the choice of my campsite beside the motorway and no rain.
Madness and crazy, but a fun experience in the end.

Today I’m going to cross the Slovenian border into Hungary. No checking, just passing the borderline.

Maybe a new bicycle cart worth a try

After 70 km, heavy headwinds after dull road and many sunflower fields, has forgotten how many…

Hungary is widely known for their sunflower fields – they are everywhere

…I cycled into Miskolc few minutes after 12.

The first thing I did was look for a cafe and found severals after the shopping street.
While I was sitting in the afternoon sunshine drinking my coffe and beer I send a inquiry to a couchsurfing service for a one night bed or two!

Expected no response at all but within quarter I recived an answer from a person calling himself Chris.
He was positive and told me this very night was´nt possible but next one. His real name was Ugochukwu Anigu and we decided for a short meet outside Tesco Express tomorrow afternoon.

We switched mobilephone numbers and e-mails and he also gave me a brief description of where he lived. Has never tried this kind of accommodation before, so it will be a surprise.

When I cycled into Miskolc, I saw a tourist info poster  about The Avas which is a hill of volcanic origin and also a landmark for Miskolc. This visit have to wait until tomorrow morning.

After my coffebreak I searched for a hotel and no problem to find one.
Rest of afternoon I cycled aorund the citycenter, left my bicyclefor servivce with promise it would be finished before 15 p.m next day.
Later in evening I took a walkabout for eveningmeal and few beers.

See yeah tomorrow
// P-G

 

By |2023-09-25T19:47:33+00:00May 4th, 2017|Europe, General, Slovakia|0 Comments
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